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HICKS' 

BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



COMPRISING 



An Easy, Practical System of Estimating Material 
and Labor 



Carpenters, Contractors and Builders. 



A COMPREHENSIVE G-UIDE TO THOSE ENGAGED 

IN THE VARIOUS BRANCHES OP THE 

BUILDING TRADES. 



/ 



By I. P. HICKS. 



ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS OF ORIGINAL 
DRAWINGS. 



DAVID WILLIAMS, Publisher, . , j 

Nos. 96-102 Reade Street, New York. ^ / ^^ U 















Copyright, 
I. P. HICKS. 



0^"^^ 



PREKACK. 



The importance of such a work as " Hicks' Build- 
ers' Guide " will be apparent to all making an in- 
spection of its contents, while every one who will 
give its pages a few hours of careful consideration 
and attention cannot fail to appreciate the conven- 
ience and usefulness of the volume. From actual ex- 
perience I know there are many things about build- 
ing which, if arranged for concise and ready refer- 
ence and put into book form, would be a valuable 
aid to carpenters, contractors and builders. The 
frequent inquiries which I have seen in building 
journals have led me to the belief that a book con- 
densed in form, giving in an easy, practical way gen- 
eral items of interest and value to the trades ad- 
dressed, is much needed. 

this volume it has been the object of the 
author to point out how mistakes may be avoided in 
making estimates and to introduce a practical sys- 
tem for making such estimates, thus enabling the 
carpenter or builder to do the work with greater 
accuracy. The information in this work has been 
collected from the close observation and actual ex- 
perience of a practical workman, who has spent years 
in the execution of just.that class of work with which 
the majority of workmen meet from day to day. 

That the information, methods and rules set forth 
in this work may serve to instruct and benefit all who 
become the possessor of a copy of it is the earnest 
wish of The Author. 

Omaha, Neb., 1893. 



POINTS ON ESTIMATING. 

To the carpenter and contractor there is nothing 
of more importance than accurate estimating, for 
it is one on which success in business largely de- 
pends. What is it worth ? is a question very fre- 
quently asked the carpenter, and he is expected 
to know at once everything about a building. What 
is it worth to build a house like Mr. Blank's? 
What is it worth to build a porch on my house ? 
What is it worth to build a bay window on my house ? 
How much more will it cost to put sliding doors 
in my house than folding doors? Similar questions 
by the hundred are daily asked the carpenter, and 
the persons inquiring naturally expect a prompt 
answer and a reliable estimate. The question. What 
is it worth? is often a difficult one to answer, and 
when applied to a hundred different things it is no 
wonder the carpenter finds himself beset with diffi- 
culties. That thousands of mechanics have long felt 
the need of some reliable and practical method of 
estimating material and labor required in building 
there can be no doubt. 

To make an estimate for a building always re- 
quires a careful consideration of the plans and speci- 
fications, as well as a considerable amount of figur- 
ing. Practical experience and personal familiarity 
with every item that enters into the construction of a 
building is what every man needs in order to become 
a good estimator ; yet this is no reason why he can- 
not learn or profit from the experience of others. In 



4 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

^his hustling, bustling age of the world the easiest, 
quickest and surest way of estimating is needed. 
Such a method can only be acquired by close atten- 
tion to business, adopting means and methods which 
will be a safeguard against mistakes and by learning 
to estimate actual quantities. Before proceeding 
further with this subject it will be well to explain 
some of the principal terms used in measuring dis- 
tances, surfaces and solids. 

LINEAR MEASURE. 

This is used in measuring distances where length 
only is considered — without regard to breadth or 
depth. It is frequently called lineal measure, mean- 
ing measured in a line without regard to breadth or 
depth. It is sometimes called 
line measure. Fig. i shows a 
lineal foot, drawn to a scale of i Fig-, i.— Lineal Foot, 
inch to the foot, the three figures 
following being to other scales. 

SQUARE MEASURE. 

This is used in measuring sur- 
faces or things whose length and 
breadth are considered without 
regard to hight or depth, as 
sheeting, flooring, plastering, &c. Fig. 3.-A Square Foot. 
Fig. 2 shows a square foot. In 

the measurement of lumber, square measure is fre- 
quently termed board measure, and when used as 
board measure the thickness is considered as one inch. 
A square is a figure which has four equal sides, and all 
its angles right angles, as shown in Fig. 2. Hence a 
square inch is a square the sides of which are each 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



a lineal inch in length. A square foot is a square the 
sides of which are each a lineal foot in length, as rep- 
resented in the diagram. A square yard is a square 
the sides of which are each a lineal yard in length 
and contains 9 square feet, as shown in Fig. 3. Square 
measure is so called because its measuring unit is a 
square. The standard of square measure is derived 
from the standard linear measure. Hence a unit of 
square measure is a square the sides of which are re- 



9 square feet = 1 square yard 






















Y\g. 3.— A Square Yard. 



Fi^. 4.— A Cubic Foot. 



spectively equal in length to the linear unit of the 
same name. 

CUBIC MEASURE. 

This is used in measuring solid bodies or things 
which have length, breadth and thickness, such as 
stone masonry, the capacity of bins, boxes, rooms, 
&c. A cube is a solid body bounded by six equal 
sides. It is often called a hexahedron. Hence, a cubic 
inch is a cube each of the sides of which is a square 
inch. A cubic foot is a cube with each of its sides a 
square foot, as shown in Fig. 4. 

Cubic measure is so called because its measuring 
unit is a cube. The standard of cubic measure is de- 



6 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

rived from the standard linear measure. A unit of 
cubic measure therefore is a cube whose sides are 
respectively equal in length to the linear unit of the* 
same name. 

ITEMS AND QUANTITIES. 

Having explained the terms used in the measure- 
ment of material the next step will be to consider the 
method of estimating the same. In estimating the 
lumber required for a building there are many parts 
for which the amounts required may be listed in a 
convenient form of table. For example, if we know 
the amount of material of one kind required for one 
window frame, we can multiply this amount by the 
number of frames, and obtain the total amount at 
once of this kind of material required for frames, and 
so on with various other parts. Much time will be 
saved by having a list of this kind, and it will aid 
very much to insure correctness in estimating. Fol- 
lowing is a list of items giving the amount of lum- 
ber required for various parts of buildings arranged 
for concise and ready reference : 

LIST OF ITEMS AND QUANTITIES REQUIRED. p , 

Jamb casings for windows, ^-inch finish 10 

Jamb casings for windows, 13^-inch finish 12 

Jamb casings for doors, ^-Inch finish 10 

Jamb casings for doors, 13^ -inch finish 12 

Jamb casings for doors, l^^-inch finish 15 

Jamb casings for doors, 2 -inch finish 20 

Outside casings for windows, ^-inch finish 8 

Outside casings for windows, 1^-inch finish 10 

Outside casings for doors, J^-inch finish 10 

Outside casings for doors, 13>^-inch finish 12 

Inside window casings, lineal measure 20 

Inside door casings, one side lineal measure 16 to 18 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Inside door casings, two sides lineal measure 32 to 36 

Band molding window frames 16 

Band molding door frames, one side 16 to 18 

Band molding door frames, two sides 32 to 36 

Molding outside caps of frames 4 

Sills for windows, per frame, lineal measure 2}{ 

Sills for doors, per frame, lineal measure 4 

Window stops, per frame 12 to 16 

Parting stops, per frame . . 12 to 16 

Door steps, per frame , 16 to 18 

Porch columns, board measure 24 to 30 

Brackets, board measure 4 to 6 

Horses and treads for stairs, If^-inch finish 90 to 110 

For risers and finish about stairs, Jg-inch finish. . .30 to 60 

Shelving for pantries „ 50 to 100 

Shelving common closets 4 to 8 

PRACTICAL RULES FOR ESTIMATING. 

To 3 inch flooring add one-third for the matching. 
To 4 inch flooring add one-fourth for the matching. 
To 6 inch flooring add one-fifth for the matching. 
To 4 inch ceiling add one-third for the matching. 
To 6 inch ceiling add one-fifth for the matching. 
To 8 inch shiplap add one-sixth for the matching. 
To 10 inch shipiap add one-eighth for the matching. 
To 12 inch shiplap add one-tenth for the matching. 

ESTIMATING SIDING. 

To 6-inch beveled siding add one-sixth for the lap 
and make no deductions for openings^ for in general 
the waste in cutting will equal the amount gained 
by openings. 

ESTIMATING SHEETING. 

In estimating sheeting for shingle roofs make no 
allowance for spreading the boards. Calculate the 
same as for close sheeting a roof, for what is gained 
in spreading the boards is generally lost in the cut- 
ting. The boards should never be placed more than 



H THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

2 inches apart for a good roof. Sheeting for gut- 
ters on roofs having box cornices is an item often for- 
gotten. These gutters are variously formed, but 
usually consist of four pieces of sheeting, forming a 
bottom, two sides and a fillet next to the crown mold- 
ing. The combined width of these pieces is from i 
to 2 feet. Hence the amount of lumber required for 
gutters may be found by multiplying the length of 
the gutters by the combined width of the pieces 
which form it. 

For example, suppose the length of gutters on a 
building is 42 feet, and to form the bottom, sides and 
fillet requires a board equal to ijA, feet wide, how 
much lumber will be required ? Operation: 42 x i^ 
= 63 feet. 

The sheeting for gutters often amounts to sev- 
eral hundred feet on large jobs, and is a matter wor- 
thy of attention. Sheeting is one of the items of 
which carpenters usually fall short. The reason is 
obvious, it being one of the cheapest kinds of 
material. It is used for many purposes for which the 
carpenter does not count. Wherever a board is 
wanted for one purpose or another, a sheeting board 
is taken, provided it will answer, while several hun- 
dred feet are usually employed in building scaffolds. 
A large portion of this is wasted by being nailed, 
sawed and split. It is safe to say that in estimating 
sheeting one-fifth should be added to the net estimate. 

ESTIMATING SHINGLES. 

In estimating shingles allow nine to the square 
foot when laid 4^ inches to the weather, and eight 
to the square foot when laid 5 inches to the weather. 
Common shingles are estimated to average 4 inches 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE, 



wide, and 250 are put up in a bunch, there being four 
bunches to the thousand. 

Dimension shingles are usually 5 or 6 inches wide, 
150 to 180 being put in a bunch, and four bunches 
counted 1000. In reality there are not 1000 shingles, 
but being wider than the average of common shingles 
they are counted the same. There is more waste in 
laying dimension shingles than the common ones. 
One-eighth should be allowed for waste in laying di- 
mension shingles. 

ESTIMATING STUDDING. 

To estimate studding for the outside walls and par- 
titions in houses, estimate them 12 inches from 
centers, then when they are set the usual distance, 16 
inches from centers, there will be enough for all 
necessary doubling around doors, windows and cor- 
ners. I prefer this rule for the following reasons : i. 
Because it is easier to count the studding 12 inches 
from centers than 16, as the number of feet in length 
of an outside wall or a partition gives the number of 
studding, and is seen at once. 2. Mistakes are less 
liable than in estimating 16 inches from centers, and 
adding for double studding, as in adding for double 
studding more than one half the places requiring 
double studding will be overlooked. This rule is 
not intended to make up for things left out, but 
is only for making up the number of double stud- 
ding required around doors, windows and corners, 
plates and other places requiring studding must be 
estimated separately. Studding is another item of 
which carpenters usually fall short, for the simple 
reason that many are used in places that were over- 



10 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

looked in the carpenter's estimate. To prove beyond 
a doubt that the method of estimating 12 inches from 
centers can be relied upon, we will give a plan, Fig. 5, 
of the outside walls and partitions of a one-story 
cottage, and a practical example illustrating the 
method of estimating. 

Referring to the plan, it will be observed that the 
size is 24 X 32 feet, and that the length of each par- 




Pig. 5.— Floor Plan of a One Story Cotta.?e, Showing Walls 
and Partitions. 

•tition is given. We will suppose it to be a lo-foot 
story. Now, by the plan it is necessary only to add 
the length of the outside walls and the partitions to- 
gether, and to obtain the number of studding re- 
quired. The operation is as follows : 

Feet. 

Two outside walls, 32 feet each 64 

Two outside walls, 24 feet each 48 

One inside partition 32 

One inside partition 14 

Three inside partitions, 10 feet each ... , „ . . . . 30 

One inside partition 4 

Total ,.. , 192 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 11 

Thus we see that the total number required is 192 
studding. Now, by the old way of estimating, we 
would have to find the feet as above. Multiply by 
12, because 12 inches make a foot, and divide the 
product by 16 inches, the distance the studding are 
to be placed from centers. By the old method the 
work of estimating has but just commenced, but we 
will help it out a little by an occasional short cut. 
If we multiply 192 feet by 3 and divide by 4 the 
result will be the same as though we multiplied by 
12 and divided by 16, thus 192 x 3 -^ 4 = 144 
studding, the number required without any doubling. 
Now comes the work of counting up the places 
requiring double studding, which is more bother- 
some than all the rest put together. In cutting out 
for the windows the pieces that come out will make 
the headers ; consequently, if the sides are doubled 
it will take about three studding to two windows. 
Now, there are eight windows, which require 
12 studding. This amount can nearly always be 
saved, as most window frames are made for weights, 
and the studding has to be set far enough away 
from the jambs to allow the weights to work freely, 
and when thus set they seldom require doubling. In 
cutting out for the doors the pieces that come out 
will double one side, and it will require one lo-foot 
studding to double the other side and make the 
header. There are eight doors on the plan, conse- 
quently eight lo-foot studding will be required for 
them. There are four outside corners, to double 
which will require four studding. There are 12 
inside partition angles, which we will suppose in this 
case to require two studding to the corner, which 



12 THE builders' GUIDE. 

they will not, as one studding has been included in 
the partition, but we will call it two to the corner, 
which will make 24 studding. Now, let us sum up 
and notice the results. 
Number of studding estimated 16 inches from centers. ... 144 

Number of studding for doubling around windows 12 

Number of studding required for doubling around doors . 8 
Number of studding for doubling four outside corners. , 4 
Number of studding for doubling 12 partition angles 24 

Total 192 

Thus, after allowing an abundance for doubling, 
we still come out even. After all our figuring, the 
old method has only proven the correctness of the 
new, and, as it is so much easier than the old, it may 
meet with favor. As for myself, I can say that I have 
used the method of estimating studding 12 inches 
from centers with perfect satisfaction, and have al- 
ways had a few left. I not only consider it the 
easiest, but the most accurate way of estimating stud- 
ding for outside walls and partitions. 

At the present day the frame work of most houses 
is composed principally of studding, such as are used 
in the outside walls and partitions. This is especially 
true regarding the plates, rafters and sometimes the 
ceiling joists. The plates on the outside walls are 
usually doubled and the partition walls usually have 
a single plate, top and bottom. The outside walls of 
small buildings do not require plates across the ends, 
but on tall buildings it becomes necessary to extend 
the plates across the ends. To estimate the number 
of studding required for plates, add together in feet 
the lengths of the outside walls and partitions which 
require plates and divide by the length of studding 



THE builders' GUIDE. 13 



used for plates. For example suppose it is required 
to put plates all around on the plan shown in Fig. 5, 
which is 192 feet, including outside walls and parti- 
tions, and that the lengths of studding used is 16 
feet ; then 192 -^ 16 = 12, which represents the num- 
ber of studding required for a single plate. This 
amount doubled will give the number required for 
double plates on the outside walls and single plates 
top and bottom, on the partition walls, making 24 
studding, the net amount, to which should be added 
one-eighth for waste in cutting, making in all 27, the 
number required for plates. If the outside walls and 
partitions do not have the same amount of doubling, 
or the same number of pieces for plates, then they will 
have to be estimated separately. 

ESTIMATING FLOOR JOISTS. 

These are usually placed 16 inches from centers, 
except for floors which are to carry very heavy 
weights. In these the joists are frequently placed 12 
inches from centers. To estimate them 12 inches 
from centers add i to the number of feet in length 
of one wall on which the joists are placed. For ex- 
ample, suppose a building is 32 feet long, and the 
joists are placed 12 inches from centers. We simply 
add I to 32, which makes ;^^, the number of joists 
required for one span. If there are similar spans it 
will only be necessary to multiply by the number of 
spans. If the spans are unlike, then estimate each 
span separately. If the joists are placed 16 inches 
from centers, then multiply the length of wall by ^ 
and add i. This will give the required number. 
Thus if the wall is 32 feet long, then 32 x ^ -}- i = 25, 
the number required for one span. The reason for 



14 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

adding t is because the first operation, that of multi- 
plying by ^, gives the number of spaces between 
joists, and one joist more than there are spaces is 
always required, except in cases where the sills serve 
the place of a joist. In such a case the exact number 
will be one less than the number of spaces. A few 
extra joists are usually required for doubling and 
framing headers around stairways, chimneys, &c. A 
little attention giveix to a plan will show the number 
required for this purpose. Ceiling joists, collar 
beams and rafters may be estimated in the same 
manner. 

ESTIMATING CORNICE. 

A cornice usually consists of several members, the 
most common kind being known as the five-member 
cornice, which consists of a planceer, fascia, frieze, 
crown and bed molding. To estimate the quantity 
of lumber required for a cornice, multiply the length 
in feet by the combined width of the planceer, 
fascia and frieze in feet. Thus if the planceer is 12 
inches wide, the fascia 4 inches and the frieze 12 
inches, the combined width is 28 inches, which re- 
duced to feet equals 2^. Now, if we have a cornice 
120 feet long and 2 ^ feet wide, the operation will be 
as follows: 120 x 2^ = 280 feet, net amount. In 
cutting up lumber for cornice there is always more 
or less waste, and it is safe to say that one-eighth 
should be added to the net figures. One-eighth of 
280 is 35; thus the total amount required is 315 feet 
board measure. The bed and crown molding will 
each be the same as the length of the cornice, with 
one-eighth added for waste in cutting. One-eighth of 
120 feet is 15; thus the total amount of molding re-. 



THE builders' GUIDE. 15 

quired is 135 feet lineal measure. It usually takes a 
few feet more of the crown molding than of the bed 
molding on account of the crown molding being on 
the outside line of the cornice. This difference is 
hardly worth noticing except on large jobs. The 
difference usually amounts to from 2 to 3 feet per 
square turn in the cornice, and is usually estimated 
by counting the number of turns. 

ESTIMATING CORNER CASINGS. 

The width of the average corner casing is about 5 
inches, and the easiest and quickest way to estimate 
material for this purpose is to allow i foot board 
measure to each lineal foot in hight per corner. Thus 
the hight of a corner in feet gives the number of feet 
board measure required, and is very easy to calculate. 
For example, if a building has 18 feet studding for out- 
side walls it will require 18 feet of lumber, board meas- 
ure, per corner for corner casings. Many houses have 
what are commonly termed belt courses. These are 
usually casings of the same width as the corner 
casings and extend around the building at the top or 
bottom of the window and door frames, To esti- 
mate these, find the number of feet, lineal measure, 
required and divide by 2, which gives the amount 
in board measure. Board measure is understood to 
mean i inch thick. One quarter must be added for 
i^-inch lumber, and one-half for 1}^ inch lumber. 
In estimating corner casings and belt casings in the 
manner just described, nothing need be added for 
waste, because we have estimated the casings 6 
inches wide when only 5 inches are required. This 
allowance is sufficient to cover the waste and makes 
the computation much easier, 



16 THE builders' GUIDE. 

MISTAKES FROM OMISSIONS. 

Having given the reader the essential points and 
short cuts in estimating material, we will now point 
out what is considerd a source of frequent mistakes, 
and give a safeguard for it. In estimating material 
many mistakes are made from omissions. A bill of 
material for the construction of a building always 
requires a long list of items, and it frequently hap- 
pens that some items have been forgotten and left 
entirely out of consideration. Probably more 
serious mistakes in estimating material arise 
from this cause than any other. They are 
very discouraging to the contractor. They are 
things he did not count on, but nevertheless he has 
them to buy, and as extras he always has to pay 
more for them than he would had he included them 
in his original bill. Now, if a person had an itemized 
list of the material entering into the construction of 
a building, there is no doubt by comparing his bill 
with the list mistakes from omitting items would be 
avoided. In a bill there are many items of material 
that are used for different purposes and different parts 
of a building, hence to make a list complete in every 
detail it should mention the part of a building for 
which each kind of material is used. In the list 
following, the items which are likely to be used for 
more than one purpose or part of a building are in 
full-face type, and the different parts for which the 
same are Hkely to be used are in type of the usual 
face. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



17 



LIST OF ITEMS 


FOR ESTIMATING LUMBER. 


Sills. 


Sheeting^. 


Side Sills. 


Outside Walls. 


End Sills. 


Roof Sheeting. 


Middle Sills. 


Gutters. 


Trimmers. 


Floor Lining. 


Post?. 


Shiplap Sheeting. 


Main Posts. 


Shingles. 


Center Posts. 


Dimension Shingles. 


Door Posts. 




Basement Posts. 


Siding. 

Beveled Siding. 


Girts. 


Cove Siding. 


Main Girts. 


Barn Siding. 


Side Girts. 




Tie Girts. 


Battens. 




Yq Ogee Battens. 


Joists. 


3^-inch Battens. 


First Floor. 


Lattice. 


Second Floor. 




Third Floor. 


Furring. 


Ceiling Joists. 


Ix21nch. 


Porch Joists. 


2x2 inch. 


Studding. 


Fencing. 


Side Studding. 


4 Inch. 


Gable Studding. 


6 Inch. 


Partition Studding 


Paper. 


Braces. 


Straw Board. 


Plates. 


Tarred Board. 


Porches. 




Bay Windows. 


Finish, Ji Inch. 

Outside Base. 


Roof Timbers. 


Bay Window Finish. 


Common Rafters. 


Porch Finish. 


Hip Rafters. 


Cornice. 


Valley Rafters. 


Brackets. 


Jack Rafters. 


Stair Risers. 


Trusses. 


Jamb Casings. 


Purlins. 


Pantry Shelves. 


Collar Beams. 


Closet Shelve^. 



18 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



Finish, IM Inch. 

Outside Casings. 
Corner Boards. 
Jamb Casings. 
Porch Finish. 
Bay Window Finish. 
Scroll Work. 
Stairs and Steps. 
Outside Steps. 

Finish, 2 Inch. 

Door Sills. 
Window Sills. 
Jamb Casing. 
Brackets. 
Cellar Stairs. 

Finish, 1% Inch. 

Outside Casings. 
Outside Steps. 

Finish, 3^ Inch. 

Panels. 

Drawer Bottoms. 

Flooring. 

Main Floors. 
Kitchen Floor. 
Dining Room Floor. 
Porch Floors. 

Ceiling. 

Porch Ceilings. 
Panels. 
Wainscoting. 
Lining Partitions. 

Inside Finish. 

Casings. 
Corner Blocks. 
Plinth Blocks. 



Stair Rail. 
Newel Posts. 
Balusters. 

Molding. 

Bed Molding. 
Crown Molding. 
Panel Molding. 
Cove Molding. 
Base Molding. 
Band Molding. 
Quarter Round. 
Door Stops. 
Window Stops. 
Parting Stops. 
Wainscoting Cap. 
Window Stools. 
Water Table. 
Thresholds. 

Doors. 

Front Doors. 
Sliding Doors. 
Closet Doors. 
Cupboard Doors. 
Cellar Doors. 

Windows. 

Bay Windows. 
Pantry Windows. 
Cellar Windows. 
Transoms. 
Art Glass. 
Plate Glass. 

Blinds. 

Outside Blinds. 
Inside Blinds. 

Corner Beads. 



GEOMETRICAL MEASUREMENT OF ROOFS. 

In the measurement of carpentry work there 
is probably no part so difficult to master as the 
accurate measurement of roofs, particularly where 
they are composed of hips and valleys forming 
a great variety of irregular surfaces. The shapes of 
roofs having hips, valleys and gables are usually 
represented in the form of some triangle. The 




Figs. 6-10.— Different Forms of Triangles. 



Fig. 11.— A Square. 



Fig. 12.— A Rectangle. 



different forms of triangles are shown in the dia- 
grams, Fig. 6 representing an equilateral triangle, 
Fig. 7 an isosceles triangle, Fig. 8 a right-angled tri- 
angle, Fig. 9 an obtuse-angled triangle and Fig. lo 
a scalene triangle. Figs. 6, 7 and 10 are also acute- 
angled triangles. Fig. 11 shows a square and Fig. 
12 a rectangle. It is a very easy matter to compute 
the area or surface measurement of a square or a 
rectangle. The area of a square or a rectangle is 

19 



20 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



found by multiplying its length by its breadth. In 
computing roof measurements all triangles can be 
reduced to squares or rectangles of equal areas by 
very simple methods. 

FINDING THE AREA OF A GABLE. 

Referring to Fig. 13, A B C represents the gable 

of a building of which A C is the width and D B is 

the perpendicular hight. 

By dividing the gable 

on the line D B we have 

two triangles of equal 

areas and equal sides. 

It is evident that if the 

triangle D B C is 

placed in the position 

shown by the dotted 

lines A E B, it will 

form a square whose side is equal to one-half the 

width of the gable. This of course applies to gables 




Fiff. 13.— Diagram for Finding' 
Area of a Gable. 




ADO 
Fig. U.— Finding Area of Gable when Roof is Less than Half Pitch. 

on buildings of a half pitch roof. With a roof of less 
pitch a rectangle would be formed with A D for its 
length and D B for its breadth, as shown in Fig. 
14. In this figure the triangle A B C is equal in area 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE 



21 



to the rectangle A E B D. From the foregoing illus- 
trations and principles we derive the following : 

Rule. — Multiply one-half the width of the gable by 
the perpendicular hight. 

For example, if a gable is 24 feet wide and the 
perpendicular hight is 8 feet, then 24 -^ ^ x 8 = 96 
feet, the area of the gable. 

FINDING THE AREA OF A TRIANGLE. 

Let ABC represent a right-angled triangle, as 
shown in Fig. 15. If we divide the triangle hori- 
zontally half way on the 
perpendicular, then the tri- 
angle E B D will equal in 
area the triangle shown by 
the dotted lines A F E ; 
hence the triangle ABC 
equals in area the rectangle 
AFDC. From the ill istra- 
tion we derive the following: 
Rule. — Multiply the base by one-half the perpen- 
dicular hight. 




Fig. 15.— Finding- Area of a 
Eight- Ang'led Triangle. 







3 






G 


E/ 


^ 


X.F 


H 


/ 


\ 



AD C 

Fig. 18.— Finding Area of a Scalene Triangle. 

In Fig. 16 A B C represents a scalene triangle 
which has no perpendicular line in reality, but for 
convenience in estimating we draw one, which is 



22 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



B D, dividing the triangle into two right-angled tri- 
angles of unequal areas. By dividing the triangle 
horizontally half v^^ay on the perpendicular, as shown 
by E F, the triangle E B F equals in area the two 
triangles shown by dotted lines AGE and F H C. 
Hence the triangle ABC equals in area the rectangle 
AG H C. 

Having shown how triangles may be reduced to 
squares and rectangles of equal areas, the next step 
will be to show their proper application to roof 
measurements. 

PLAIN GABLE ROOFS. 

The gable roof is the most common in use, and is 
formed by two sets of rafters which meet at the 
ridge. Fig. 17 shows a plan of 
this kind of roof. Fig. 18 a side 
elevation. Fig. 19 an end eleva- 
tion and Fig. 20 showing the size 
of roof necessary to cover the 
side elevation represented in Fig. 
18. An error liable to occur in 
taking roof measurements from 
architectural plans consists in taking the line 
A B in the side elevation, Fig 18, for the length 

B 

B 



Fig. 17.- 



Planof Gable 
Roof. 




Figs. 18, 19 and ?0.— Side and End Elevations of a Gable Roof. 

of the rafter. This line is only the perpendicular rise 
of the roof, as shown in the end elevation. Fig. 19, by 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



23 



the dotted line A B. In Fig. 19, B C represents the 
length of rafter which, when shown in a perpendicu- 
lar position, is indicated by B C in Fig. 20. This 
shows the length of roof and of rafter necessary to 
cover the side elevation, represented in Fig. 18. 
Hence the area of the roof is found by multiplying 
the length of the roof by the length of the common 
rafter, which gives the area of one side. This amount 
doubled will give the area of both sides. 

HIP ROOFS. 

The liability to error in estimating the area of hip 
roofs is still greater than in the case of gable roofs, 
for no matter from which point we view the eleva- 




mg. 21.— Plan of Hip Roof 
with Deck. 



Fig-. 23.— Side Elevation of Roof 
shown in 'Fig. 21. 



tions the length of the common rafter is not shown 
in proper position to indicate the true size of the 
roof. Fig. 21 shows a plan of a hip roof with deck, 
and Fig. 22 a side elevation of this kind of roof. In 
this figure some might take the lines A B and C D 
for the length of the hips, and C E for the length of 
the common rafter, but such is not the case. C D 
shows the length of the common rafter as we would 



24 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



see it on the end looking at the side vievi , hence 
E D is the run, E C the rise and C D length of com- 
mon rafter. I will now indicate the method of de- 
veloping the lengths of 
the hips, showing the 
true size of the roof, 
and how to reduce the 
figure to a rectangle of 
equal area. Referring 
to Fig. 23, A B CD and 
E represent the same 
lines as shown in Fig. 
22. Now, take the length of the common rafters A 
B and C D in Fig. 23 and draw them perpendicu- 
larly, as shown by E F and G H. Connect F with 
D and H with A for the length of the hips, then the 
figure inclosed by the lines A H F D will be the size 
and shape of the roof necessary to cover the side ele- 




Fig. 23.— Size and Shape Necessary 
to Cover Roof. 





Fig. 24.— Plan of Pyramidal 
Roof. 



¥lg. 25.— Plan of Roof which 
Hips to a Ridge. 



vation. The triangle described by the lines D E F 
equals in area the triangle A I H, shown by the dot- 
ted lines. Hence the roof A H F D is equal in area 
to the rectangle A I F E, whose length is one-half 
the sum of the eaves and deck lengths and whose 
breadth is the length of the common rafter. The 



THE builders' GUIDE. 25 

length multiplied by the breadth gives the area. 
From the foregoing illustrations and principles we 
derive the following : 

Rule. — Add the lengths at the eaves and deck to- 
gether, divide by two and multiply by the length of 
the common rafter. The area of the deck is found 
by multiplying the length by the breadth. 

Example. — What is the area of a hip roof 20 x 28 
feet at the eaves, with deck 4x8 feet, the length 
of the common rafter being 10 feet? 

Operation. — 20 + 4 +20 + 4 +28 + 8+28 + 8-^2 
X 10 = 600 feet, the area of the four sides. 4x8 = 
32 feet, the area of the deck. 600 + 32 = 632, the 
total area of the roof. 

This rule will apply to hip roofs of most any 
kind. If the roof is pyramidal in form and hips 
to a point, as shown by Fig. 24, then there is noth- 
ing to add for deck, and we simply multiply one- 
half the length at the eaves by the length of the 
common rafter. The principles of the three forms 
of hip roofs are essentially the same. 



HIP AND VALLEY ROOFS. 

Let Fig. 26 represent the plan of a building 
having a roof of three gables of equal size and 




Fig. 26.— Plan of Roof with Four Gables. 

one smaller gable hipped on the rear side, as 
shown in the diagram. Fig. 27 shows this roof 
as it would appear in the front side elevation. Refer- 




Fig. 27.— Front Elevation of Roof Shown in Fig, 



ring now to Fig. 28, A B and B C represent the 
length of rafters on the front gable. Next set off 
the length of the common rafters of both the right 

26 



THE builders' GUIDE. 27 



and left gable perpendicularly, as shown by F G and 
D E, connecting E with G for the ridge line. On the 
perpendicular line of the front gable set'off the length 
of the common rafter, shown by the dotted line J H. 



EH G 


/ Jb\ 


D A J C F 



Fig. 2>.— Diagram for Fiodiag Area of Roof Shown in Previous Figure. 

Connect H with A and C for the valley rafters, which 
completes the profile of this side of the roof. The 
two figures, now represented by A D E H and C F 
G H, are termed trapezoids. To find the area of a 
trapezoid multiply half the sum of the parallel sides 




Fig. 29.— Appearance of Roof in Right End Elevation. 

by the altitude. In this case to make the matter 
plain we multiply half the length at the eaves and 
ridge by the length of the common rafter, which 
gives the area of the roof necessary to cover the ele- 
vation shown in Fig. 27. 

Fig. 29 shows the roof as it would appear in the 
right end elevation. We will now develop the 



28 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



shape of the roof and obtain the necessary lengths 
for finding the area of this elevation. Referring 
now to Fig. 30, A B and B C represent the length of 
rafters on the right gable. Next set off the length of 
rafter on the front gable shown by D E. Then setoff 
the same length in the center of the left gable shown 
by the dotted line J H. Connect H with E for ridge 
line of front gable. Connect H with A and C for the 
valley rafters. Now take half the width of the rear 
gable, which is to be hipped on the end, and in this 




FJg. 30.— Diagram for Finding Area of Roof Shown in Fig. 29. 

case is represented by C F From C erect a perpen- 
dicular the length of the common rafter on this part, 
shown by the dotted line C G. Connect G with F 
for the hip rafter and draw the ridge line G I par- 
allel with C F, which completes the profile of this 
view of the roof. The figure shown by A D E H is 
a trapezoid, and its area may be found as has been 
previously described for such figures. The figure 
shown by C F G I is termed a rhomboid. Its area 
may be found by multiplying C F by C G, or, in 
other words, the length at the eaves multiplied by 
the length of the common rafter gives the area. 
The areas of the two figures added completes the 
area of the roof necessary to cover the end elevation 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



29 



shown in Fig. 29. As the left end elevation is similar 
to the right in shape and size the last estimated area 
doubled will give the area of the roof necessary 
to cover the two end elevations. 

We have now to consider the rear elevation and the 
roof necessary to cover it. Fig. 31 shows the roof as it 




Fig. 31.— Roof as it Appears -n Rear Elevation. 

would appear in the rear elevation. We will now de- 
velop the shape of the roof and obtain the necessary 
lengths and lines for finding the area of this elevation. 
Referring to Fig. 32, A B and B C represent the 
length of the common rafters on the rear gable. 




Fig. 32.— Diagram for Finding the Area of Roof Shown in Fig. 31. 

From the center of the gable set off the length of the 
common rafter, as shown by the dotted line J H. Con- 
nect H with A and C for the length of the hips. Set 
off the length of the common rafter on the right and 
left gable, as shown by F G and D E ; connect E and 



30 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

G for the ridge line, which completes the profile of 
the rear view of the roof. It will be seen that the 
ridge of the rear gable does not come up even with 
the ridge of the other two ; hence the rear elevation 
shows a different shape than the front. For conven- 
ience in estimating, we divide the roof in the center 
of the gable, shown by the dotted line H I; then 
divide the roof perpendicularly each side of the gable, 
as shown by the dotted lines A K and C L. We now 
have the roof divided into four figures, of which D E 
K A and C L G F are rectangles, A K I H and C L 
I H are trapezoids. As the method of obtaining the 
areas of such figures has been previously described, 
further explanation is unnecessary. It has now been 
shown how to find the area of each side of the roof, 
as indicated in the plan. Fig. 26. By adding the 
area of the four sides the total area of the roof will 
be obtained. 

THE CIRCLE. 

A circle. Fig. ^;^, is a plane figure bounded by one 
uniformly curved line called the circumference. The 
diameter of a circle is a straight 
line drawn through the center 
and terminating at the circum- 
ference. The radius is a straight 
line drawn from the center to 
the circumference, and is there- 
fore half the diameter. 

To find the circumference of 
a circle from its diameter, multi- 
Fig. 33.-^ Circle. ^^^ ^^^ diameter by 3.14159- 
To find the diameter of a circle from its circumfer- 
ence, divide the circumference by 3.14159- 




THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



31 



To find the area of a circle multiply half the cir- 
cumference by half the diameter, or multiply the 
square of the diameter by the decimal .7854. 

To find the side of the greatest square that can be 
inscribed in a circle of a given diameter, divide the 
square of the given diameter by 2 and extract the 
square root of the quotient. 

TO FIND THE RADIUS OF A CIRCLE FROM A SEGMENT. 

' Let A C, of Fig. 34, represent the chord of an arc. 
From the center of A C square up the rise of the 
segment to B. Connect B with A and C. From the 




Fig-. 34.— Diagram for Finding Radius 
from a Segment. 



Fig. 35.— Drawing a Circle 
Through Three Points. 



center of A B and B C square down the lines as 
shown. The point of crossing at D is the center of 
the circle, and D C is the radius. 

TO DRAW A CIRCLE THROUGH THREE PJINTS, 

Set off any three points, as A B C, Fig. 35, Con- 
nect A B and B C by straight lines. Frorn the center 
of A B and B C square down to D, as shown, which 
will be the center of the circle. D B is therefore the 
radius of the circle which will strike the three points 



32 THE builders' guide. 



A plane figure bounded by more than four lines is 
called a polygon. It must therefore have at least 
five sides, and the number of sides which it may 
have is not limited. In this work will be intro- 
duced only the forms in common use, for the purpose 
of showing simple methods of estimating their areas 

A regular polygon has all its sides and angles 
equal, as shown in Fig. 36. An irregular polygon 
has its sides and angles unequal, as shown in Fig. 37. 





Fig. 36.— A Regular Fig. 37.— An Irregular 

Polygon. Polygon. 

A polygon of five sides, as shown in Fig. 2>^ or 37, 
is called a pentagon. The diagonal is a straight line 
drawn between any two angular points of a polygon. 
The diameter is a straight line drawn from any 
angle through the center to the opposite side or 
angle, as the case may be. 

To find the area of a regular pentagon we will let 
A B C D E represent the sides of a regular pentagon, 
as shown in Fig. ^Z. Draw the diameter A F and 
connect E with B, which divides the pentagon into 
four figures— namely, two right angled triangles of 
equal areas and two trapezoids of equal areas. E G 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



33 



multiplied by G A will give the area of the two tri- 
angles. Half the sum of D C and E B multiplied by 
G F will give the area of the two trapezoids. The 
two areas added will give the total area. 

To find the area of an irregular pentagon, we will 
let A B C D E represent the sides, as shown in Fig. 39. 
Next draw A D and A C, which will divide the pen- 
tagon into three triangles of unequal areas ; then 
draw the altitude of these triangles, which is the per- 




Fig. 38.— Finding Area of 
Regular Pentagon. 



Fig-. 39.— Finding Area of an 
Irregular Pentagon. 



pendicuiar distance from their vertices to the oppo- 
site sides, called the base and shown by the lines E F, 
A G and B H. This divides the figure into six right 
angled triangles of unequal areas. A D multiplied by 
half the altitude E F will give the area of triangles 
I and 2, or A E D ; then D C multiplied by half the 
altitude A G will give the area of triangles 3 and 4, 
or D A C. Again A C multiplied by half the altitude 
H B will give the area of triangles 5 and 6, or A B C. 
The three areas added will give the total area, 



34 THE builders' guide. 

A polygon of six sides is called a hexagon, and 
is shown in Fig. 40. To find the area of this 
figure draw the diagonals as shown in Fig. 41, which 
divide the hexagon into equal triangles, the size of 



Fig. 40.— A Hexagon. Pig. 41.— Finding the Area 

of a Hexagon. 

which is represented by A B C. Next draw the alti- 
tude of this triangle, as shown by the dotted line B 
D. Now, A C multiplied by half the altitude B D 





Fig. 42.— Describing any Reg- Fig. 43.— An Octagon, 

ular Polygon. 

will give the area of the triangle ABC, and this mul 
tiplied by six will give the total area. The area of 
any regular polygon may be fouild l?7 drawing lines 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



35 



from all of its angles to the center, thus forming; tri- 
angles of equal areas, w':ich may be estimated by 
multiplying the base by one-half the altitude, as 
shown in Fig. 41. To describe any regular polygon 
draw the circumference of a circle; divide the circum- 
ference into as many equal spaces as the polygon has 
sides, connect these points with straight lines, and 
the polygon is completed, as shown in Fig. 42. 

A polygon of eight sides is called an -octagon and 
is shown in Fig. 43. In Fig. 44 is represented a plan 




Fig. 44.— Plan of an Octagon 
Tower Roof. 



Fi"^. 45.— An Elevation of an 
Octagon Tower Roof. 



and in Fig. 45 an elevation of an octagon tower roof. 
In Fig. 45 A B C D represent the plates and A E, 
B E, C E and D E the hip rafters. The dotted line 
F E represents the common rafter. To find the area 
of this roof multiply B C by half of F E and this 



36 THE builders' guide. 

product by eight, the number of sides. It will now 
be seen that the area of any tower roof from a square 
to a polygon of any number of sides may be found 
by multiplying the length of its side by half the 
length of the common rafter. If the tower has a 
round base then the circumference of its base multi- 
plied by half the length of the common rafter will give 
the area. The reader has now been shown wherein 
it is possible to make mistakes in the measurement 
of roofs, as indicated by the elevations. It has 
been shown how to develop the true shapes and sizes 
of irregular roof surfaces and how to reduce them to 
squares or rectangles of equal areas, or to figures 
whose areas are- easily calculated. I might go on 
illustrating and describing roofs seemingly without 
end, but enough has been illustrated to thoroughly 
show the principles and methods of estimating roof 
surfaces. By a little study of the principles and 
methods, as previously set forth, the reader will be 
able to make proper application* of them to the sur- 
face measurement of any roof. 

It will be noticed in nearly all cases that the essen- 
tial measurements for computing the area or surfaces 
of roofs are— I, the length at the eaves ; 2, the length 
at the ridge or deck, as the case may be, and 3, the 
length of the common rafter. 

In works of this kind it has been customary to 
show a number of illustrations on geometry, merely 
indicating how to construct certain figures from a 
given side or a few given points, while in all cases 
the most important part which a carpenter requires — 
that of computing the area of irregular surfaces— has 
been omitted. In the art of carpentry there is no 



THE builders' GUIDE. -S*/ 

place in which these irregular-shaped figures appear 
as frequently as they do in the construction of roofs, 
and if the carpenter has no accurate methods for 
computing their areas then he has to make a guess, 
which is the course taken by many who have never 
seen a proper application of geometry to the surface 
measurement of roofs. Roof surfaces have to be 
estimated in order to ascertain the amount of ma- 
terial required to cover them, as the sheeting, shin- 
gles, slate, tin, copper, iron, &c., or whatever may be 
used for the roof covering. In the illustrations and 
examples given there might have been presented 
many rules for finding the length of certain sides of 
a figure, by having the lengths of one or more of the 
other sides, but they would be merely mathematical 
problems, which in most cases could be solved only 
by square root. As many carpenters- are not con- 
versant with square root it has been deemed best to 
avoid its use as much as possible in this work, and 
especially in places where it is not needed. It must 
be generally conceded in taking roof measurements, 
that if a carpenter can measure one distance he can 
measure the roof to find any distance he may desire 
to know. Therefore the illustrations given have been 
more to show how to measure roofs to obtain the 
proper dimensions for computing their areas than as 
geometrical problems and methods of construction. 
The author has considered the subject of roof meas- 
urement worthy a place by itself in estimating, and 
the subject of roof framing will be taken up, thor- 
oughly illustrated and described in another part of 
this work. 



ESTIMATING LABOR FOR CARPENTRY WORK. 

It is generally claimed that the question of 
labor is the most difficult and uncertain the car- 
penter is called upon to solve. Material can often 
be figured very closely, but just how long it 
will take to work up a lot of material and place it in 
position in a building can not be so easily de- 
termined. The cost of labor depends upon the time 
required to perform a certain amount of it. All 
men do not work alike ; some will do easily one- 
third more than others — hence the time required to 
perform a certain amount of labor depends largely 
upon the ability of the men employed, the advantages 
they take in doing work and the skill of the foreman 
in the management as it progresses day by day. It 
is an easy matter to find four men who will do as 
much in a day as five others, and to illustrate the 
surprising result of the difference in the ability of 
men to perform labor, I will give a practical ex- 
ample. 

Suppose two contractors, A and B, each have a job 
of work exactly the same. A takes his job for $900 
and B his for $800. Each pays wages at the rate 
of $2.50 per day, and each employs five men ; but 
four of B's men are equal to five of A's and it takes 
60 days to complete his job. Which will make the 
most money, and how much ? The solution of this 
problem is as follows : If A employs five men at 
$2.50 per day for 60 days, the labor will cost him 
$750 ; as he took his job for $900, his profit is $150. 
Now if four of B's men are equal to five of A's, B will 



THE builders' GUIDE. 39 

complete his job in one-fifth less time than A, which 
will be 48 days. Now, if B employs five men at $2.50 
per day for 48 days, the labor will cost him $600, and, 
as he took his job for $800, his profit is $200. Thus we 
can see how one man can underbid his competitor 
$100 on $900 worth of work and still make the most 
money. Again, suppose it required B 52 days to 
complete his job ; even then he could bid $100 lower 
than A and still make as much money. The above 
example shows at least one chance for the surprising 
difference in builders' estimates on the same work. 
It also shows how the difference in the ability of the 
workmen employed and the management of the work 
can make a vast difference in the cost of a building. 
Under such circumstances how can a contractor 
make estimates upon which he can rely? 

In all kinds of work there must be an average, 
and this average is what is wanted as a standard in 
estimating. If labor cannot be estimated from what 
is known to be an average day's work, then we 
naturally conclude it must be estimated by com- 
parison or guessed at. The best way for a contractor 
to obtain facts and figures that he can rely upon in 
estimating is to keep a record of all the work he does. 
It will not do to trust to memory, for in a few months 
or a year he will not know whether such and such 
work cost $42 or $54, or what it cost. If he would 
profit by experience he will keep a record of the cost 
of his work, so that he can refer to it at a moment's 
notice. To keep a record that will give the best 
and most reliable facts and figures prepare a list of 
all kinds of work, having twosets of money columns, 
one for estimated cost and one for actual cost. 



40 THE builders' GUIDE. 

When estimating a job put down the estimated cost, 
and when the actual cost is found from experience in 
doing the work put it down, and keep each particu- 
lar kind of work or portions of a job separate from 
the entire job. By so doing one will soon be able to 
see where he has estimated too high or too low, and 
will have facts and figures which will enable him to 
make a proper average. Some parts of a building 
are easily estimated by the " square," which contains 
loo square feet. Some parts are easily estimated by 
the lineal foot, while other portions are best esti- 
mated by the piece. Keep a record of the time 
required by different men in doing work by the 
square, lineal foot or piece. In this way one will 
find the average day's work from actual experience, 
which is the Only plan that can be followed with 
success. 

When it is known what it is worth to do work by 
the square, lineal foot or piece, any person of ordi- 
nary skill in figuring ought to be Capable of making 
an estimate reasonably accurate. As I have said be- 
fore, the average day's work of all kinds is what is 
wanted as a standard in estimating. Accordingly I 
have prepared a table with the average day's work 
of each kind and the average rates to figure on. The 
table is made on a basis of ten hours for a day's 
work and as near as practical to average $3.50 per 
day. If an estimate is wanted for nine hours add 
one-tenth to the price ; and if for eight hours add 
one-fifth. The prices can easily be made for any rate 
per hour or any number of hours per day. To those 
who want to test the advantage of a table of this 
kind I would say, do not take it for granted that my 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



41 



rates and averages are the best in the world, or that 
they are just the thing for a guide, but prepare a 
similar list and begin entering rates and averages as 
they are found from actual experience. Then one 
will have something that will suit the locality in 
which he lives, and there can be no doubt that in a 
short time he will have something that will be much 
to his advantage in estimating. Let me say how- 
ever, that the average day's work as found in the 
table is a reasonable average, as I have found from 
experience, and considerable dependence can be 
placed on estimates made from it. 

POINTS ON ESTIMATING LABOR. 

While the tables show the average day's work with 
the average rate per square, per lineal foot, and per 
piece for nearly all kinds of carpentry work, yet I 



TABLE OF PRICES FOR ESTIMATING LABOR BY THE LINEAL 
FOOT. 



Different kinds of work per lineal foot. 



Putting down base and quarter round 

Putting on base molding 

Cap and molding for wainscoting . 

Putting up cornice 

Making gutters in cornices 

Putting up corner casings 

Putting on belt casings 



Average 

day's work. 

No. of 

feet. 



90 
180 
140 

24 

50 
70 
90 



Rate 
per 
foot. 



$0.04 
.02 

•02K 

.15 

.07 

.05 

.04 



think it proper to show how and why variations 
should sometimes be made, and that it is necessary 
to use some discriminating judgment in connection 



42 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



with the tables as regard the average day's work. 
Undoubtedly, many will think the rates in the table 
too high, and the averages too low, but right here 

TABLE OF PRICES FOR E=^TIMATING LABOR BY THE 
SQUARE. 



Different kinds of work per square. 



Framing floors in houses . . 

Framing floors in barns 

Framing outside walls of houses 

Framing outside walls of barns 

Framing and setting partitions 

Framing ceilings 

Framing plain roofs 

Framing hip and valley roofs 

Sheeting sides with com non sheeting. . . 

Sheeting sides with 8 inch shiplap 

Sheeting sides with 6- inch flooring 

Sheeting roofs with common sheeting. , . 

Sheeting roofs with 8-inch shiplap 

Shingling with common shingles 

Shingling with dimension shingles 

Siding with 6-inch beveled siding 

If papered before siding 

Siding with 6-inch cove siding 

If papered before siding 

Siding with 12-inch barn boards 

Siding with 12-inch boards and battened 
Laying floor with 6-inch pine flooring. . 
Laying floor with 4-inch pine flooring. . 

Laying floor with 6-inch hardwood 

Laying floor with 4 inch hardwood 

Laying floor which has to be surfaced , . 

Ceiling with 6-inch pine ceiling 

Ceiling with 4-inch pine ceiling 

Plain wainscoting without cap 



iiverage 
day's work. 


Rate 


No. of 


per 


squares. 


square. 


5 


$0.70 


4 


.90 


6 


.60 


4 


.90 


6 


.60 


7 


.50 


6 


.60 


3 


1.20 


8 


.45 


7 


.50 


6 


.60 


8 


.45 


6 


.60 


2^ 


1.40 


2 


1.75 


3 


1.20 


2^ 


1.40 


2^ 


1.40 


2 


1.75 


6 


.60 


4 


.90 


6 


.60 


4M 


.80 


5 


.70 


4 


.90 


2 


1.75 


4 


.90 


3 


1.20 


4 


.90 



let me say that no contractor should make an esti- 
mate based on these so-called big day's work. If he 
does he is almost sure to find he is mistaken. An 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



43 



estimate should always be made from a reasonable 
average, and then if the contractor is able to average 
as well as he estimates, and perhaps a little better, 
he feels that he is making a success of his business 

TABLE OF PRICES FOR ESTIMATING LABOR BY THE PIECE. 



Different kinds of work per piece. 



Making plain window frames 

Making plain door frames 

Making transom frames 

Setting frames in position in building 
Hanging blinds before frames are set 
Hanging blinds after frames are set. 

Hanging inside blinds 

Fitting sash in frames 

Hanging sash with weights 

Hanging transoms 

Casing windows 

Casing doors, one side 

Casing doors, both sides 

Casing transom frames, one side 

Casing transom frames, both sides. . . 

Cutting in window stops 

Cutting in door stops 

Band molding frames, one side 

Band molding frames, two sides 

Putting down thresholds 

Fitting common doors 

Hanging common doors 

Patting on rim knob locks 

Putting on mortice knob locks 



Average 
day's v/ork. 


Rate 


No. of 




pieces. 


piece. 


3 


11.20 


4 


.90 


3 


1.20 


14 


.25 


15 


.24 


10 


."35 


5 


.70 


18 


.20 


14 


.25 


10 


.35 


12 


.30 


16 


.22 


8 


.44 


12 


.30 


6 


.60 


35 


.10 


30 


,12 


24 


.15 


12 


.30 


24 


.15 


20 


.18 


20 


.18 


35 


.10 


14 


.25 



and is satisfied. On the other hand, if the estimate 
is made from too large an average, the big day's 
work which was counted on may not be accomplished 
and many a time^ what seemed like time enough. 



44 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

would prove insufficient. Then there would be dis- 
satisfaction and disappointment. I will now return 
to the tables and show how to make some short cuts 
by combinations. In the tables every item is given 
separately for convenience in estimating any particu- 
lar portion of a job, but to facilitate the work of 
estimating an entire job, many of the different items 
maybe combined and regarded as one. For example, 
it is worth— 

For framing and placing joists in position per 

square $0.70 to $0.90 

Laying floor per square 60 to 1.75 

Total $i.80to$3.65 

Thus the framing and laying of floors may be 
estimated at once if desired. The bridging of joists 
should be estimated at 3 to 5 cents per joist for each 
row of bridging. 

DOUBLE FLOORS. 

Where one floor is laid over another it is worth 
one-fourth more to lay the second floor than the first. 
Thus if it is worth 60 cents per square to lay the first 
floor, it is worth 75 cents per square to lay the second, 
or $1.35 per square for both. Framing floors for 
brick buildings may be estimated at the same rate as 
for frame, for, while there is usually less framing, 
more time is required to place joists in position and 
level up, thus making the labor about equal. As a 
building progresses in hight more time is required to 
place joists in position, hence 10 per cent, should be 



THE builders' GUIDE. 45 



added to each cujceeding story after the first. The 
outside walls of a house may be estimated as follows: 

To frame and raise, per square $0.60 to $0.90 

Sheeting the same, per square 45 to .60 

Siding the same, per square 1.30 to 1.75 

Total $2.25 to $3.25 

Thus the outside walls of a house may be esti- 
mated at $2.25 to $3.25 per square. 

Framing should include raising and sheeting ; 
and siding should be estimated sufficiently high to 
cover the cost of building scaffolds. It is worth one- 
third more to sheet a building inside than outside, 
and twice as much to sheet it diagonally. The siding 
of a house is subject to large variations, as a man can 
often side three or four times faster on some build- 
ings than he can on others. The amount an average 
workman will put on in a day depends upon the num- 
ber, size and shape of the openings around which he 
has to side, the hight of the building and the amount 
of scaffolding he has to do. Difficult places to side 
can be readily seen on a building or even from a plan, 
and the siding should be estimated sufficiently high 
to cover the cost. I have known men to put on siding 
for 60 cent^ per square, but not one man in ten can 
make anything like respectable wages at this price, 
even on the plainest kind of work and under the most 
favorable circumstances. Some men may be able to 
put on four squares a day and perhaps a little more 
than that, but the large majority will fall short of 
four, and some will not put on more than two squares 
a day. The average is therefore not more than three 
squares per day, which would amount to $1.80 per 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



day, with chances of not doing so well. In estimat- 
ing siding or sheeting by the square no deduction is 
made for openings. Roofs may be estimated as fol- 
lows : 

For framing, per square $0 60 to $1.20 

For sheeting, per square 45 to .70 

For shingling, per square 1.25 to 1.75 

Total $2.30 to $3.65 

Thus to frame, sheet and shingle a roof it is worth 
from $2.30 to $3.65 per square. Each hip or valley 
in a roof is worth from 75 cents to $1.50 for 
sheeting and shingling. Hips and valleys cannot be 
shingled or sheeted with as much speed as plain roofs, 
and are seldom estimated high enough. The shin- 
gling of belt courses and gables with dimension shin- 
gles is worth from $2 to $3.50 per square, according 
to the windows and difficult places with which the 
workman has to contend. 

CORNICES. 

A cornice is composed of several members, the 
most common kind containing five, which are known 
respectively as planceer, fascia, frieze, crown and bed 
moldings. It may be estimated at 15 cents per lineal 
foot. If a cornice has more than five members add 
2 to 3 cents per lineal foot for each member. If 
there are less than five members a similar deduction 
may be made. If a cornice has brackets it will be 
necessary to add a sufficient amount to cover the cost 
of putting them up. 

GUTTERS. 

These are variously formed on roofs and in cornices 
and: are worth from 4 to 10 cents per hriea,! foot A 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



41 



standing gutter on a roof is worth from 4 to 6 cents 
per foot. A flush gutter or one sunk in a roof or 
cornice is worth from 6 to 10 cents per foot. Fig. 46 
shows a cornice with a standing gutter on the roof. 
The gutter is usually placed on the second or third 
course of shingles, and consists of one piece standing 
square with the roof, as shown by the dotted lines, 
and is usually supported by small brackets on the 




STUDDING 



Fig. 46.— Cornice with Standing Gutter. 

under side with end pieces as shown. G is the 
gutter, C the crown molding, F^ the fascia, P the 
planceer, B the bed molding, F the frieze and S the 
sheeting. Fig. 47 shows a gutter formed in the cor- 
nice with four pieces— namely, a bottom, two sides 
and a fillet, all as shown by the dotted lines. G is 
the gutter, FL the fillet, C the crown mold. Fa the 



48 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



fascia, P the planceer, B the bed molding, F the 
frieze and S the sheeting. To make this kind of a 
gutter is worth lo cents per hneal foot. 

PORCHES. 

Sometimes porches may be estimated by the lineal 
' [ per foot. This, however, is not 



foot, at from ^2 to ; 




Fig. 47.— Gutter Tormed in the Cornice. 

the best method, its principal advantage being its 
simplicity and ease. The most common kind of 
porches, with which almost every one becomes famil- 
iar, may be estimated as above with generally satis- 
factory results. The best and most accurate way, 



THE builders' GUIDE. 49 



however, is to estimate the framework, flooring, 
ceiling and roofing by the square; the cornice, gut- 
ters and latticework by the foot, and the steps, col- 
umns, brackets and ornamental work by the piece. 
After summing up the various parts the result may be 
taken as the most reliable estimate. 

ESTIMATING WINDOW FRAMES. 

The various parts of the work necessary to com- 
plete a window frame in a building may be put down 
as follows : 

Making frame $1.25 

Hanging blinds 25 

Setting frame in building 25 

Fitting sash 20 

Hanging sash with weights 20 

Casing window. 30 

Band molding frame 12 

Catting in stops .09 

Total $2.66 

Thus we see that plain window frames complete 
in a building, may be estimated at $2.66 each. It 
should be remembered that a fine hardwood finish is 
often worth twice or three times as much as a com- 
mon soft wood finish, and that large transom frames, 
twin windows, &c., finished in hardwood may be 
worth as high as $20. 

DOOR FRAMES. 

The different parts of work required to complete 
a door frame may be estimated as follows : 



50 THE builders' GUIDE. 

Making frame $0.90 

Setting frame in building 25 

Casing frame 44 

Band molding frame 24 

Fitting and hanging door 36 

Putting on mortice lock 25 

Cutting in thresholds 15 

Cutting in stops 12 

Total $2.71 

Thus it is worth $2.71 per frame to make and 
finish common door frames complete in a building. 
By looking over the above estimate it will be seen 
that there is a great deal of work about a door frame 
besides fitting and hanging the door and putting on the 
lock — hence many are apt to estimate too low. To 
fit, hang and put a lock on a common door, using one 
pair of loose pin butts and a common mortice lock, 
is worth 60 cents. The average day's work is about six 
doors per day. If the doors are large and require three 
butts each, it is worth 75 cents per door. Front doors 
having complicated locks with night keys, &c., are 
worth $1.50 to $2 per door. 

SLIDING DOORS. 

The different parts of work required to put up 
sliding doors are worth as follows : 

Lining partitions and putting up track $7.00 

Setting jambs 1.00 

Casing door frame 1 .00 

Band, molding frame 30 

Hanging doors and putting on lock 3.50 

Cutting in stops , 20 

Total $13.0C 

Thus sliding doors are worth $13 per set, and may 
vary according to size and style of finish up to $30. 



THE builders' GUIDE. 51 

A single sliding door is worth very "nearly as much 
as double doors. The difference in the labor of put- 
ting them up in most cases would not be over $2. 

FOLDING DOORS. 

The cost of labor for putting in folding doors com- 
plete is from $3.75 to $5.50 per set. To fit, hang and 
put on lock and flush bolts is worth from $1.75 to 
$3.50 per set. 

WAINSCOTING. 

Plain wainscoting is worth about 90 cents per 
square. The cap should be estimated by the foot 
extra, according to style of finish. Paneled wains- 
coating is often worth twice or three times as much 
as plain work. 

SINKS. 

To finish a kitchen sink in the plainest style is 
worth $2, and some styles finished in hardwood are 
worth as much as $-10. 

BATHROOMS. 

A bathroom having in connection a wash bowl 
and a water closet, finished in the plainest style, will 
take a good workman two days, and is worth $7. An 
inexperienced hand in this kind of work will require 
about three days to complete the job. Some styles 
of hardwood finish will require from four to six days' 
work and are worth from $14 to $21. 

PANTRIES. 

The shelving and finishing of a pantry in the 
plainest style is worth from $3 to $5. Pantries with 
flour chests, spice drawers and numerous other 
things, shelves inclosed with doors, all elegantly 
fitted up, are worth from $25 to $40. 



52 THE builders' guide. 

STAIRS. 

The cheapest kind of cellar stairs are worth from 
$3 to $5, and the plainest kind of box stairs from $8 
to $12 per flight. Plain open stairs with hand rail, 
newel post and balusters are worth from $20 to $35. 
Stairs and staircases finished in hardwood may vary 
from $50 to $150. It is frequently worth from $10 to 
$20 to set the newel posts and put up the rail of some 
of the most elaborate designs. 

RECAPITULATION. 

In looking over the items which have been variously 

combined and bringing them to a minimum, it will 
be seen on what the carpenter has to figure and the 
easiest way of estimating it. 

Framing and laying fioorS; per square $1.30 @ $3.65 

Framing, sheeting and siding, per square 3.25 @ 3.35 

Framing and setting partitions, per square. .. .60 @ .90 
Framing, sheeting and shingling roofs, per 

square 2.30 @ 3.65 

Hips and valleys, each .75 @ 1.50 

Shingling belt courses and gables, per square. 3.00 @ 3.50 

Cornice, per lineal foot 10 @ .15 

Corner casings, per lineal foot 04 @ .06 

Gutters, per lineal foot 06 @ .10 

Porches, per lineal foot 3.00 @ 4.00 

Window frames, complete, in building, each. 3.66 @ 30.00 

Door frames, complete, in building, each 3.70 @ 30.00 

Sliding doors, complete, in building 13.00 @ 30.00 

Folding doors, complete, in building . . : 3.75 @ 5.50 

Wainscoting, per square 90 @ 3.70 

Wainscoting cap, per lineal foot 03 @ .05 

Sinks, each 3.00 @ 10.00 

Bathrooms, finished complete 7.00 @ 31.00 

Putting down base in houses, per lineal foot.. .03 @ .05 

Finishing pantries 3.00 @ 40.00 

Cellar stairs, very common 3.00 @ 5.00 

Plain stairs..... 30.00 @ 35.00 

Front stairs................ .,.,. 30.00^150,00 



SHORT CUT IN ESTIMATING. 

As many of the principal parts of construction 
in common buildings are essentially the same, a 
short cut may be made in figuring the bulk of the 
rough work, which includes the framing, raising, 
sheeting, siding, roofing, laying of floors, and setting 
partitions. Take the number of cubic feet in the 
building from top of foundation to top of ridge of 
roof and multiply by the rate per cubic foot, which 
is usually from two to three cents. After estimating 
the rough work in this manner add all the parts that 
are considered of a changeable character, such as the 
cornice, gable trimmings, porches, bay windows, in- 
side finish, and all parts not included in the bulk of 
the estimates. Of course one can see that a change 
in price will change the amount of the estimate, and 
that it is as necessary to use discriminating judg- 
ment in fixing rates for this method as in any other. 

To successfully estimate the labor in a building 
every one must fix his own rates from personal ex- 
perience in doing the class of work which he is called 
on to perform. Tables, prices and methods are good 
in their way, and many times will give valuable aid 
in estimating, but actual experience is far better. 

The foregoing items include those which come 
under the head of carpentry. Of course the con- 
tractor will have many other items on which to 
figure if he desires to estimate or contract for the 
entire job. 

The following list, arranged in regular order, will 



54 THE builders' guide 

be found to include the principal divisions of estimat- 
ing an entire job, and also shows a good form for an 
estimate : 

FORM FOR AN ESTIMATE. 



Excavating 

Foundation walls 
Brick walls and piers. 

Chimneys 

Lumber 

Carpentry work 

Hardware 

Tin work 

Galvanized iron work . 

Plastering 

Plumbing 

Gas fitting 

Steam fitting 

Painting 

Incidental expenses . . . 



PRINCIPAL DIVISIONS IN ESTIMATING. 

Under each division there will always appear many 
items on which to figure, but as contractors are sup- 
posed to be supplied with specifications, it is useless 
to enumerate all the items as they may appear under 
each head. The two principal divisions of lumber and 
carpentry have been given in full in every detail of 
the work. Under the other divisions it will only be 
necessary to mention a few of the essential points 
to enable any one to estimate them easily and accu- 
rately. 

EXCAVATIONS. 

Excavating for foundation walls, cellars, cisterns, 
&c., is estimated by the cubic yard, which contains 
27 cubic feet. The rate per yard is variable in dif- 
ferent localities and accordins: to the location of the 



THE builders' GUIDE. 55 

grounds and the hardness of the earth to be ex- 
cavated. 

FOUNDATIONS AND CHIMNEYS. 

Foundations are generally laid of brick or stone. 
Brick are laid by the thousand, and stone by the 
perch. The rates and customs of measuring are 
variable in different localities. The following, how- 
ever, is the usual custom of measuring brick and 
stone work. For a foundation the outside measure- 
ment of the wall is the one taken. To find the num- 
ber of perches of stone in walls, multiply the length 
in feet by the hight in feet, and that by the thickness 
in feet, and divide the product by 22. No allowance 
is made for openings, unless they are numerous or of 
considerable size. 

EXAMPLE AND SOLUTION. 

Take the following example : How many perches 
of stone in a wall 48 feet long, 8 feet high and i foot 
6 inches thick? The solution to this is : 48 x 8 x 
i^ -^ 22 = 26.18 perches. A perch of stone measures 
usually 24.75 cubic feet, but when built in a wall 
2.75 cubic feet are allowed for mortar and filling. 
To find the perches of masonry divide the cubic feet 
by 24.75 instead of 22. In estimating the masonry 
no allowance is made for openings. A thousand 
brick are about equal to two perches of stone when 
laid in a wall. Brick are counted as follows : 

For a 4-inch wall 7}^ bricks to the foot. 

For an 8-inch wall 15 bricks to the foot. 

For a 12-inch wall 22^2 bricks to the foot. 

For a 16-inch wall 30 bricks to the foot. 

In estimating for the number of brick the open- 



56 THE builders' GUIDE. 

ings may be deducted if they are large or numerous. 
In the measurement of masonry, however, no deduc- 
tion is made for openings. Seven hundred and fifty 
brick laid in a wall are equal to looo brick, wall 
count. The customary price allowed for the labor 
of laying brick is $2 per tooo, wall count. 

A chimney oi i)4 by 2 brick makes a flue 4X 
8 inches inside and requires 25 bricks per foot. A 
chimney of 2 by 2 brick makes a flue 8x8 inches 
inside and requires 30 bricks per foot, while a chim- 
ney of 2 by 2}i brick makes a flue 8x12 inside and 
requires 35 bricks per foot. Chimneys of any size 
may be estimated by counting the number of brick 
required for one course and allowing five courses to 
the foot. A chimney breast for a fire place is usu- 
ally of 2 X 7 brick and requires 80 to 90 bricks per 
foot. 

LATHING /ND PLASTERING. 

Lathing is estimated by the square yard and the 
usual rate is 3 cents per yard. Fifteen lath are 
counted to the yard, and 6}4 pounds of threepenny 
nails per 1000 lath. Plastering is also estimated by 
the square yard. The lathing and plastering are 
usually estimated together at the following rates, 
including material and labor : 

For two-coat work, 18 to 23 cents per yard, and for 
three-coat work, 23 to 27 cents. In the measurement 
of plastering no deduction is made for openings. 

PAINTING. 

When a carpenter has to figure upon painting it is 
better for him to get some reliable mechanic who is 
in the business to give figures on the work. Painters 



THE builders' GUIDE. 57 

figure their work by the square yard. I have in- 
quired of practical painters concerning their methods 
of calculation and have failed to find any uniform 
scale or rule by which to measure surfaces. Nearly 
all master painters have a basis of calculation, but the 
accuracy of their estimates depends so much upon 
personal judgment as to the nature and extent of 
variations, that their methods would be useless to 
persons of less accurate judgment. The methods 
also vary according to the nature of the work and 
the training of the painter. No two would measure 
in the same way, perhaps, yet they might reach 
nearly the same results. Although it is true that 
very much depends upon the painter's judgment, I 
will try to give a few hints which will be found in 
some cases entirely trustworthy and in all helpful. 
0.ne way of measuring is to obtain the number of 
square feet in the sides and ends of a building as if 
they are flat surfaces, give a rough guess as to the 
dimensions of trimming, &c., and let it go at that. 
This plan may work well for a good guesser, but for 
general use it is not very satisfactory. Another way 
in connection with wooden buildings is to measure 
the length and exposed surface of one strip of siding, 
then count the siding and multiply the dimensions 
of one by the whole number on the side or end of 
the building ; the product will be the surface meas- 
ure. This is a better way, but its accuracy depends 
upon a pretty thorough acquaintance with compound 
numbers, as dimensions must be reduced to inches, 
then back to feet or yards, according to the basis of 
calculation. Trimmings, &c., are measured separately. 
Common siding are put on with one board over- 



58 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

lapping another, and the lapping edge of the board is 
raised from the perpendicular, so that it presents a di- 
agonal instead of a flat surface ; and there is also the 
exposed edge of the board, about ^ inch, which 
should be included in the estimate. Suppose, now, 
that the exposed portion of a board of siding is 4 
inches — the usual width — and the edge ^ inch. It 
will give the side of a building just 12^ percent, 
more surface than it would possess if it were per- 
fectly flat. Hence one-eighth added to the dimen- 
sions, obtained by multiplying hight and length to- 
gether, will give the actual surface measure of com- 
mon siding. 

In drop siding, which is frequently used, there is 
an exposed edge of about ^ inch, and about }^ inch 
more surface on the molded edge than there would 
be if it were flat, thus making a total gain over flat 
surface of ^ inch on each piece of siding, or 18^ 
per cent., which is very nearly equal to one-fifth. 
Hence one-fifth should be added to the dimensions 
in square feet of a building to obtain the surface 
measurement for drop siding. 

In measuring the gable ends of ordinary buildings 
the dimensions should be one-half less than actual 
square measure. For example, if a building is 20 
feet wide, and is to feet from the level of the frame 
plates to the point of the roof, multiply half the 
width, 10 feet, by the hight, 10 feet, and we have 100 
feet surface of the gable end, to which should be 
added the percentages for the edges of the siding 
boards, &c. No deduction is usually made for open- 
ings. Cornice and trimmings should be measured 
separately. If there are panels, beads and other pro- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



lecting and receding features, brackets, &c., carefully 
measure one of each, count the number on the build- 
ing and multiply by that number; the product will 
be the total surface. Open brackets on cornices and 
scroll and lattice work on verandas should be meas- 
ured solid, as the edges fully make up for open 
spaces. 

The utter lack of uniformity in house trimmings 
compels more or less reliance upon the judgment of 
the painter in measuring them. I can suggest no 
rule for measuring which can be used with satisfac- 
tory results in all cases. What would be admirably 
suited to one would be wholly unadapted to another, 
simply because the architectural features are unlike. 
Here there is no alternative but to exercise judg- 
ment in considering these important features. 

In calculating the quantity of paint required upon 
the basis of surface measurement, from 12 to 40 per 
cent, should be allowed for trimmings, &c., accord- 
ing to their size and shape. For plain work 12 to 
20 per cent, will be found a fair average. This de- 
pends, however, upon the number of doors and win- 
dows, style of frames, &c. On Queen Anne struct- 
ures, which are painted with two or three body 
colors and are burdened with numerous and elabor- 
ate trimmings, calculations must be made of the 
portions of the buildings to which the different body 
colors are to be applied either by divisions of total 
measurement or by separate measurements and the 
trimmings considered separately. As outside paint- 
ing on buildings usually consists of two coats over a 
previously painted surface, or if on a surface never 
before painted, preceded by a primary coat, it is cus- 
tomary to estimate the quantity of paint required for 



CO THE builders' GUIDE. 

two coats. Surfaces are so variable in condition that 
no rule can be given which will be found applicable to 
all cases. The quantity of paint required for two-coat 
work varies from 3)^ to 5 gallons per 100 square 
yards, and I would by all means advise carpenters to 
obtain figures from experienced painters in this 
particular line of business. 

HARDWARE. 

Estimating hardware is as much of a necessity 
with the carpenter as estimating lumber, but it is not 
attended with as many variations and difficulties. 
The number of fixtures for door and window trim- 
mings, &c., may be readily counted from the plans, 
and it is only through the omission of some items 
that any serious mistake is likely to happen. A care- 
ful study of the plans and a well prepared list of 
hardware items from which to figure is a guard 
against mistakes from omissions and a guide to cor 
rect estimating. 

LIST OF ITEMS FOR ESTIMATING HARDWARE. 

Nails, various sizes (see table). 

Brads. Hooks and eyes. 

Blind hinges. Drawer piills. 

Window bolts. Mortise bolts. 

Axle pulleys. Flush holts. 

Sash locks. Registers. 

Sash cord. Door stops. 

Window weights. Tin window caps. 

Mortise locks. ' Tin shingles. 

Rim locks. Valley tin. 

Butts, various sizes. Hip shingles, 

Parlor door hangers. Tin roofing. 

Wrought butts. Conductors. 

Strap hinges. Screws. 

Transom lifters. Sandpaper. 

Cupboard catches. Wardrobe hooks 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



On small jobs old contractors who have learned to 
judge from experience usually arrive at the quanti- 
ties of nails by guessing. The following table, how- 
ever, may be found available to many in estimating 
nails for various purposes. As wire nails are coming 
into general use, and are already extensively em- 
ployed, the basis of estimating has been made on the 
number of wire nails to the pound. If cut nails are 
used add one-third to the amount : 

TABLE FOR ESTIMATING NAILS. 

1000 shingles require d}^ pounds 4d nails. 
1000 lath require Q}4, pounds 3d nails. 
1000 feet of beveled siding requires 18 pounds 6d nails. 
1000 feet of sheeting requires 20 pounds 8d nails. 
1000 feet of sheeting requires 25 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of flooring requires 30 pounds 8d nails. 
1000 feet of flooring requires 35 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of studding requires 14 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of studding requires 10 pounds 20d nails. 
1000 feet of furring 1x2 requires 10 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of J^ finish requires 30 pounds of 8d nails. 
1000 feet of li^ finish requires 40 pounds lOd finish nails. 
The following table shows the name, length and 
number of nails to the pound of the different sizes : 

NUMBER OF NAILS TO THE POUND. 

No. to a 
Name. Length. pound. 

3dfine 1 inch 1150 

3d common 13^ inch 720 

4d common 1% inch 432 

5d common 1^^ to 1^ inch 352 

6d finish 2 inch .... .. 350 

6d common 2 inch 252 

7d common 2i^ inch 192 

8d finish 2}/^ inch 190 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



No. to a 
Name. Length. pound, 

8d common 2}4, inch 132 

9d common 2^ inch 110 

lOdfinish 3 inch 187 

lOd common 3 inch 87 

1 2d common 33^^ inch 66 

20d common 3^8 inch 35 

30d common 4 inch 27 

40d common 4^^ inch 21 

50d common 5% inch 15 

60d common 6 inch 12 

70d common 7 inch 9 

FORM OF CONTRACT. 

Articles of Agreement^ made on this 

day of 

, A. D. i8 , by and between 

, party of the first part 

and , party of the 

second part : Wi nesseth, That for and in considera- 
tion of the money hereinafter stipulated to be paid 
to the party of the first part by the party of the 
second part, the party of the first part has, and by 
these conditions does hereby agree to furnish all 
labor and material of every kind and to build and 

complete on or by the 

on the premises of the party of the 

second part, situated in 

a residence as shown upon the drawings and set 
forth in the specifications. Said drawings and speci- 
fications being verified by the signatures of the parties 
are taken as a part of this contract. And the party 
of the first part agrees that all material furnished, 
or workmanship employed, shall be of the best char- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 68 

acter and quality, as mentioned in the said specifica- 
tions. The party of the first part further agrees tliat 
he will complete, in accordance with the plans and 
specifications, to the full and entire satisfaction of 
the party of the second part, all the work that is to 
be done by the 

In consideration of which the party of the second 
part agrees to pay to the party of the first part the 

sum of $ as follows : 

When the foundations are completed. ... $ 

When the entire building is under roof. . $ 

When the entire building is plastered. ... $ 

When the entire building is completed.. . $ 

Ill Wihiess Whereof^ the parties hereto have affixed 
their signatures : 

[i-s.] 

[LS] 

JVitness : 



PRACTICAL METHODS OF CONSTRUCTION. 



Fig. 48.— A Q Out 
side Corner. 



As most carpenters are familiar with the usual 
methods of construction in the line of carpentry, I 
will only mention a few points on this subject, which 
seem to me to be more or less neglected. 

MAKING CORNERS. 

It is customary, nowadays, to make the outside 
corners of many buildings by simply doubling and 
spiking two studding together, as shown by section 
in Fig. 48. By this method there is 
nothing to receive the lath from one 
side, and as soon as the lathers begin 
work, the carpenter is called upon 
either to put in another studding or 
the lather puts in anything he can find 
to which to nail the lath. In many 
instances it is nothing more than a double thick- 
ness of lath nailed up and down the corner. This 
does not make a solid corner, 
and as a consequence the 
plastering soon cracks, even 
before the carpenter is 
through finishing. It is al- 
most impossible to put down 
the base in a house construct- 
ed with such corners without 
cracking them, simply be- 
cause they are not solid. Fig. 49 shows a section of a 
corner which is a much better method of construc- 
tion, and one which makes a solid corner. The 

64 



c 




A 


D 


B 



Fig-. 49.- Section of a Corne-, 
Indicating- a Better Method 
of Construction than sh >wn 
in Previous Fig-ure. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



65 



corner is made of three studding, A, B, C, spiked 
together as shown. D is an open space between 
A and B, which may be filled in with blocks. 
Corners constructed in this way make solid nail- 
ing for the lath and base from both sides. Figs. 
50 and 51 show two forms for making solid cor- 
ners for partition angles by using three studding. 










A 


B 





C 




A 




B 



Fig 50. Method of Making 
Solid Corners for Parti- 
tion Angle. 



Fig. 51.— Another Method 
of Making Solid Cor- 
ners. 



If it is desired to save studding aboard can be nailed 
to the back of studding C, which will often an- 
swer the purpose. It is a very common thing for 

carpenters in set- 
ting partitions to 
place the studding 
joining another 
partition half an 
inch away from it, 
so that the lather 
may run the lath 
through back of 
the partition studding, as shown in Fig. 52. This 
does not make a solid corner and is a very poor 
method of construction. 

SPACING STUDDING. 

As the second floor joists in buildings usually rest 
on a ribbon board framed into the studding, it is 



Fig 52.— Showing Improper Manner of Run- 
ning Ihe Lath. 



6G 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



necessary that the studding on both sides of the build- 
ing on which the joists have their bearing should be 
regularly spaced. Many are in the habit of laying 
off the openings and spacing the studding to conform 
thereto. This method causes great irregularity of 
spacing, making some wide and some narrow spaces, 
which either bring the joists overhead out of position 



1 [ r_ 
II 


II 
i [ 1 


[ 


.... — ll_ 


\ \ \ 

II 








"""Xi ._ 


1 



Fig. 5'd.— Showing Proper Method of Spacing Studding. 



or leaves them standing alone on the ribbon without 
any means of being properly fastened. 

Studding should be spaced regardless of the open- 
ings, after which the openings may be laid out and 
the necessary studding may be cut and headers put 
in, as shown in Fig. 53. This method leaves the 
studding all regularly spaced, and the joists will all 
nail to the side of a studding and come in the proper 
order. Now, if the studding are set to conform to 



THE Bu'iLDERS* GUIDE. 



67 



the openings, a3 shown in Fig. 54, it breaks up the 
regular order of spacing, leaving some spaces wide 
and some narrow. It will also be noticed that we 
have two more studding spaced on the sill and plate 
than in Fig. 53. It is, therefore, evident that if the 
joists are regularly spaced many of them will stand 
alone on the ribbon board, with no place to properly 



Ln 


w 


w 


1 


J 


1 


1 


J 


w 


1 


J 


1 



Fig. 54.— Showing Studding Set to Conform to Openings. 

fasten them, as shown. If they are placed over to 
the side of the studding, as they frequently are, then 
they are thrown off their centers and the spacing is 
wrong. 

CORNER BLOCKS. 

Every workman has experienced more or less diffi- 
culty in nailing up corner blocks in casing doors and 
windows. The trouble all comes from the want of a 
solid background on which to nail the blocks. Very 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



casing, 



often the plastering is not finished level and true 
with the jambs. All trouble with corner blocks may 
be avoided by taking a common board of the proper 
thickness, i^ inches narrower than the inside head 
inches shorter than the width of win- 
dow and side casings, and nail it 
tight down on the head jamb, as 
shown in Fig, 55. By this method 
the corner blocks will nail up 
true and solid without cracking 
the plastering. Care should be 
taken that the board is not too 
wide nor too long, as the blocks 
and head casing should com- 
pletely cover it from view. 

MITERING AND COPING BASE. 

■J Many mechanics have proba- 
bly experienced more or less dif- 
ficulty in mitering and coping 
base, particularly of the hard- 
wood finish and molded-edge pat- 
terns. There are two distinct kinds of joints to make 
in putting down base. The angles which form the 
four sides of a room are called internal angles, and 
the joints should always be coped. The projecting 
corners of a chimney, or any corners projecting into 
a room, are termed external angles, and the joints 
should alwaysbe mitered. To cope a joint in putting 
down base, cut and fit in square the first piece. Cut 
the piece which is to be coped to the other about 
i^ inches longer than the actual length needed; 
place it as nearly as possible in position, and with the 



1 n n 


|. BOARD . j 


MMB-^ 




J u 



Fig. 55 -Method of 
Putting up Corner 
Blocks. 



THE builders' guide. 69 

dividers set to about the thickness of the base, scribe 
down by the side of the piece already fitted and 
nailed in place; then scribe all the parts which are 
easy. Beads and molded surfaces which are difficult to 
scribe, prick with the dividers near the center of 
each member ; cut the square part of base as usuai, 
but cut the molded part on an angle which will just 
touch all the points made by the dividers. This will 
give the true line for coping. After cutting the base 
to the coping line, first see that the joint will fit, as 
sometimes a little trimming is necessary; then obtain 
the proper length, cut off and place the board in 
position, putting in last when possible to do so the 
ena which is coped. By this method a joint can be 
made very tight without the annoyance of the other 
end of the board scraping into the plastering. Many 
carpenters use a templet for obtaining the cut which 
gives the coping line. It, however, is of little use, as 
it is always made with the supposition that all angles 
are square and true, which is far from being the case. 
Scribing and cutting as above described is far bet- 
ter, as it will make a joint to fit any angle, and with 
a little practice a perfect fit will be obtained at the 
first cut. 

To miter base around external angles, mark the 
proper miter or the square edge of the base and 
square across on the back side and the square part 
of the face side. Cut from the top edge of base, 
starting on back line and cutting on an angle which 
will just cut the line on the square part of the face 
side. A little practice will convince any one that a 
templet for cutting base is not really worth carrying 
around. When properly basing a chimney, fit all the 



70 THE builders' GUIDE. 

joints before nailing, and then clamp all the pieces 
in their proper places by nailing blocks on the floor 
and driving in braces. One will be surprised at 
what a neat job can be done and how easy it is to 
do it. There will not be the usual difficulty in driv- 
ing the nails, and cracked and mutilated chimney 
corners will not bear evidence of a bad job of basing 
around them. The great difficulty of driving nails 
into the bricks is largely overcome by having ihe work 
clamped tightly against it. 



BINDING SLIDING DOORS. 

I have frequently noticed that a remedy is wanted 
for binding sliding doors. This question is very 
frequently asked, and it is not to be wondered at, for 
not one sliding door in ten put up works in anything 
like a satisfactory manner. I have had a great deal 
of experience with sliding doors, and am pretty well 
acquainted with the common defects and causes of 
unsatisfactory working. I do not wonder that a good 
remedy is wanted for these troublesome doors, for 
unless they work properly they become a great 
inconvenience. The causes of the unsatisfactory 
working of sliding doors are many, and a little gen- 
eral information on the subject may not come amiss. 
Nearly all the causes of the imperfect working of 
sliding doors can be traced directly to the improper 
construction of some part of the work in putting them 
up, and in most cases an ounce of prevention is worth 
about 4 pounds of the cure. As overhead hangers 
are almost exclusively used these are the ones we will 
take into consideration. First, it is necessary that the 
floor under sliding-door partitions should be perfectly 
solid and very nearly level. 

It is a common occurrence for buildings to settle, 
and if partitions, which often have a great weight to 
support, are not provided with a properly constructed 
foundation, they will settle enough to throw the or- 
dinary sliding door entirely out of working order. 
It Will not do to block up under sliding-door parti- 
tions with a little chip, a piece of a shingle, a little 
loose dirt under a post in the cellar bottom or some 
71 



72 tHE BUILBERS' GU1E)£. 

fresh mortar, as is often practiced. As the increased 
weight of the plastering and floors is put upon the 
partitions above, the floors begin to settle. I have 
seen floors under sliding doors ^ inch out of level. 
How can sliding doors work when put up under such 
circumstances ? If the track was level, one door would 
be sure to strike the floor as it was rolled back, 
while the other door would rise almost ij^ inches 
from the floor. Again, if the track was not level, 
but placed parallel with the floor, then the doors 
could not be adjusted to hang plumb ; consequently, 
they would not fit the jambs, unless the jambs were 
set to fit the doors ^ inch out of plumb. 

Thus far we see that the floor must be perfectly 
solid and level, the partitions must be set plumb, the 
headers put in solid and of sufficient strength to 
carry all the weight placed upon them without yield- 
ing or sagging. We will now turn our attention to 
the putting up of the track. This should be level 
and straight, and it should be straight sideways as 
well as on top where the rollers run. This is a point 
overlooked by many. They think if the track is 
straight on top that is all that is necessary, but short 
kinks sideways in a track will cause the doors to run 
crooked — running away from the stops on one side of 
the jamb, and crowding them on the other, often 
causing binding. Again, most hangers require a 
double track, constructed in the following manner : 
The track is i x ij^^ inches, and screwed to the edge 
of a board J/q x 6 inches. These boards are then fast- 
ened to the partitions at the proper hight for the doors, 
and another piece 4^ inches wide, called a spreader, 
is placed over the top. The sketch. Fig. 56, gives a 



THfi BUILDERS GUIDE. 



n 



general idea of the construction of the track and box- 
ing. In the diagram it will be noticed that the open- 
ing between the tracks and between the jambs, 
through which the lower part of the door hanger 
passes, is only one inch wide. The hangers have small 























SPREADER i'x 4\" 






O 














Z 
Q 
O 






^(0 


o 

z 

Q 






3 






a 






H 


a 






r> 








z 

X 




o 

z 

§ 


fe 










TRACK 




TRACK 


. 






JAMB r — - 

i 


, JAMB 




O 






o 






z 






z 


















Q 






o 






O 






Q 






Zi 






r> 






y- 






H 























Fig. 56,— Section showing Construction of Track and Boxing for 
Sliding Doors. 

friction rollers, which run between the two tracks, 
serving as a guide for the wheels above, and not leav- 
ing more than }i inch play between the two tracks. 
This }i inch is plenty of room if the work is properlv 
done. It is necessary that the friction rollers run 



74 THE builders' guide. 

close to the track in order that the doors may run 
true and without crowding the door stops. But sup- 
pose the boxing is insecurely fastened to the stud- 
ding, and the dampness from the plastering, when 
it is put on, causes the two 6-inch boards to cup. 
The tendency at once is to narrow the opening re- 
quired by the friction rollers of the hangers, thus 
causing a binding of the door hangers between the 
two tracks. Again, suppose the spreader, which is 
for the sole purpose of keeping the tracks the right 
distance apart, is carelessly put in a little narrow, or, 
perhaps, left out entirely, as it is occasionally by some, 
who consider it an unnecessary appendage to the 
working of sliding doors, then there is practically 
nothing to keep the tracks from springing together, 
causing a binding of the doors. 

Again, if the spreader is narrow or left out, the 
continual pounding of the lathers on the partition 
walls, and the carpenters in finishing, have a tend- 
ency to drive the partitions a little closer together, 
especially if they are not securely fastened at the top. 
Fully as many binding sliding doors are caused by 
the tracks springing together as in any other way, 
and when from this cause, the remedy is a difficult 
one to apply, as the doors may have to be taken 
down and the sides of the track trimmed off with 
very long-handled, sharp-edged tools. This cause of 
binding is likely to be overlooked, as it is the least 
suspected, and comes very near being an invisible 
cause. Again, we will suppose that a building being 
erected is to have sliding doors — that the tracks are 
put in level and at the proper time. Now, after the 
building has been plastered and the carpenter comes 



THE builders' guide. 75 

to finish the sliding doors, he finds that the weight 
of the plastering or something has caused the floor 
to settle and the track is out of level. Well, about 
nine carpenters out of ten will put the head-jamb 
level, which will bring one end of the jamb down 
from the track just as much as the floor is out of 
level. The consequence is that when the doors slide 
back, one of them will rub the head jamb and quite 
likely stick fast. The head-jamb belongs snug up to 
the bottom edge of the track, as shown in Fig. 56, 
and there is where it should be placed, even if the 
track is out of level. To level the head-jamb when 
the track is not level only makes matters worse. A 
doorway with the head-jamb slightly out of level 
will not be noticed, but a door that will stick fast 
will be noticed every time it is opened. Of course I 
advocate doing the work correctly in the first place, 
and am now showing what to do in cases of emer- 
gency. Sometimes it is necessary to rabbet the head- 
jambs at the lower portion of the inside edge, as 
shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 56. Again, some 
workmen do not plow the groove in the bottom edge 
of the door deep enough for the floor guide. It 
might work when the door was first fitted, but a 
little settling of the track would cause binding of the 
door. This can be easily remedied by letting the 
floor guide into the floor, or by taking the door down 
and plowing the groove deeper. The former is the 
easiest and quickest and in every way just as good. 
The binding of slicling doors is often caused by the 
door stops being placed too close to the doors. 
When this is the case a removal of the stops and 



76 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

placing them a little farther away will remedy the 
trouble. 

In hanging sliding doors it is better, if possible, to 
do so before the jambs are set. Many times little 
things that would interfere with the proper working 
of the doors can be easily remedied ; whereas, if the 
jambs were set, they would be concealed from gen- 
eral view and not discovered until they had caused 
a considerable amount of trouble. Is there any dif- 
ference in door hangers? is a question which very 
naturally arises. In our estimation there is consider- 
able difference, although any of them, I think, would 
give satisfaction if every part of the work in putting 
them up was done in a substantial manner. Some 
hangers have more points of excellence than others, 
but I think the Prescott hanger the nearest perfec- 
tion. With this hanger there is no track and no 
rollers. The doors hang suspended from the back 
edge, the hangers being fastened to the studding 
back of the jambs. They are as nearly frictionless 
as a door swinging on hinges, and there is no binding 
of doors from tracks and rollers. In fact, there is no 
more chance for the doors to bind from settling par- 
titions than there is with the ordinary swinging doors 
on common hinges. Of the double-track overhead 
hangers, I think the Annex a very good specimen. 
All parts of the hanger are accurately fitted and the 
adjustment is as good as could be desired. The 
Standard door hanger is another good specimen, and 
I think sometimes it will allow doors to work free 
and easy under circumstances which other overhead 
hangers would not. 



THE builders' GUIDE. '77 

TO PREVENT LEAKS IN BAY WINDOWS. 

It seems to be a very difficult matter for a car- 
penter to build a bay window that will not leak in a 
bad rain storm. There are comparatively few bays 
built that do not have a window or a large double win- 
dow directly over them, and the leak is almost invari- 
ably down the side of the casings of these windows. 
The bay window may be well roofed and the tin 
turned up under the siding for 5 or 6 inches, yet it 
will leak, and where the water gets in will be a mys- 
tery to a close observer. Water-tight joints are not 
always made in siding, and sometimes the casings 
shrink from the siding ; then the rain beats in by the 
side of the casing of the upper windows and runs 
down behind the tin turned up from the roof, thus 
causing a leak. To prevent this, saw through the sheet- 
ing under the window casings and to about 6 inches 
each side, slanting the same upward in sawing. Now 
put a piece of tin well into the saw kerf, and bend it. 
down over the tin that turns up from the roof ; then, 
after the siding is properly put on, we have a bay 
window that is positively water tight. Care should 
be taken in siding and not drive nails too near the 
roof. It is better to slant them a little upward in 
driving. In no case should the sills of the upper 
windows come closer than 4^^ inches to the roof of 
the bay window, as it is necessary to have room for 
the tin to insure a good job. 

SHINGLING HIPS AND VALLEYS. 

There are several methods of shingling hips and 
valleys, but as most mechanics are familiar with the 
different methods, I will briefly describe only a few 



78 THE builders' guide. 

of the best and most practical ones. In shinglinp^ 
hips both sides should be shingled up at the same 
time, and on hip roofs of unequal pitch it is neces- 
sary to lay the shingles more to the weather on the 
long side of roof than on the short side, in order to 
have the courses member evenly on the hip. One 
method frequently employed is to cut the hip shingles 
so that the straight edge of the shingles will line with 
the center of the hip when laid, and the grain of the 
wood run parallel with the hip instead of straight 
up the roof, as in the case of common shingles. Some 
are inclined to think this method makes a nicer look- 
ing job than the o'd way of placing the sawed edge 
of hip shingle to the hip line. As it is customary to 
use tin hip shingles, I think the old way is by far the 
best, as the water which falls on the roof will run 
with the grain of the wood, and not soak into the 
shingles, as it would running diagonally across the 
grain. 

The same is true in shingling valleys. Always 
place the valley shingles with the grain of the wood 
running up the roof the same as the common shin- 
gles, then the water running down the roof to the 
valley will run with the grain of the wood. Some 
trouble is experienced in shingling valleys straight. 
The usual custom is to put in a strip of 14-inch tin 
for the valley, and strike two chalk lines, leaving a 
space in the center of the valley 2 inches wide at the 
top and 3 inches at the bottom for the valley. It is 
a very particular job to shingle to a chalk line up a 
valley and shingle it straight. Then again, the line 
will be rubbed out before the shingling is half done. 
A better way is to stand a 2 x 4 up edgewise in the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 79 

valley, fasten it straight with a few pieces of shingles 
for braces and shingle to the 2x4, which answers as 
a straight edge. In this way one will get a respect- 
able looking valley, even when shingled by inexperi- 
enced hands. I have frequently seen valleys which 
some one had tried to shingle to a line that were at 
least 2 inches crooked, and between 5 and 6 inches 
wide in places, generally wider in the middle than at 
either end. Wide valleys should be avoided, as they 
are very liable to leak. In shingling a valley no 
nails should be driven through the valley tin except 
near the outer edge, as a nail hole will frequently 
cause a leak by water getting under the shingles. 
The best way to shingle a valley is to use single 
sheets of tin 10 x 14 inches, under each of the courses 
of shingles, leaving only about ^4 inch of the tin ex- 
posed below the butts of the shingles. Make a close 
joint with them in the valley, and a good as 
well as neat looking job will be the result when 
the work is finished. To increase the durability of 
the valley, paint the tin flashings before laying. 



ART OF ROOF FRAfllNQ. 



Probably no part in the construction of buildings 
so thoroughly taxes the skill and ingenuity of the 
builder as the framing of roofs. Many diagrams have 
been published from time to time showing how to 
find the lengths and bevels of hips, valleys and jacks 
on all kinds of roofs. Yet many of the plans here- 
tofore published have been too complicated to satisfy 
the wants of the inexperienced in the art of roof 
framing. At this time will 
be presented a choice of 
methods, beginning v/ith 
the simplest form and il- 
lustrating the subject step 
by step, thus showing new 
and novel plans as they 
will appear in actual prac- 
tice. 

First will be introduced 
a plan showing how to 
obtain the lengths and bevels of common rafters, 
hips, valleys and jacks in the simplest manner, and 
with the fewest lines possible. Referring to Fig. 
57, draw a horizontal line twice the run of the com- 
mon rafter, as A B. From the center of this line at 
C erect a perpendicular, continuing it indefmitely. 
Next set off on the perpendicular the rise of the com- 
mon rafter C D; connect D and B for the length of 
the common rafter. A bevel set in the angle at B 
will give the bottom cut and at D the top cut. Next 




-Obtaining- Lengths and 
Bevels 01" Kafters. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



31 



set off on the perpendicular line the length of the 
common rafter C E, which is the same length as D 
B. Connect E and A for the length of the hip or 
valley, as the case may be. Next space the jacks on 
the line A C and draw perpendicular lines joining 
the hip or valley. The lines J J will be the lengths 
of the jacks, and a bevel set in the angle at F, where 
the jack joins the hip or valley, will give the bevel 
across the back of the same. The plumb cut or 
down bevel of a jack is always the same as that of 
the common rafter. There are now shown all the 
lines necessary to be drawn, the plan indicating 
everything but the cuts 
of the hip or valley 
rafter, and this, be it re- 
membered, is always 17 
for the bottom cut and 
the rice of the common 
rafter to the foot run for 
the top cut. As some may 
think a system which 
does not show the cuts 
of a hip or valley as well 
as its length 13 incomplete, we will take the same 
plan and by the addition of three more lines show 
everything that can be desired, as in Fig. 58. Draw 
the lines the same as in Fig. 57, then set off on the 
perpendicular line the run of the common rafter 
C F. Connect F and B for run of hip or valley. 
Next square up the rise from F to G and connect G 
and B for the length of hip or valley rafter. A bevel 
set in the angle at B will give the bottom cut, and at 
G the top cut. It will be noticed in Fig. 58 that the 




C B 

Fig. 58.— Diagram Showing Cuts 
of Hip or Valley Rafters. 



82 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



lines A E and G B are of the same length, and in both 
cases represent the hip or valley, while showing it in 
different positions. The line A E shows the hip or 
valley in position for finding the length and bevelj)f 
the jacks, while the line G B shows the hip or valley 
in position to find the length and bevels of the 
same. This plan will work on roofs of any pitch and 
has only to be slightly varied to meet the require 
ments of roofs having 
hips and valleys of two 
pitches. On half pitch 
roofs one less line is re- 
quired, as shown in Fig. 
59. The line D B in Fig. 
58 comes in the same po- 
sition as F B, when ap- 
plied to half pitch roofs, 
and is therefore the 
length of the common 
rafter and at the same 
time represents the run 
of the hip rafter. As two lines cannot be drawn in 
the same space we drop the line D B, remembering 
that it is shown by F B. 

BEVEL OF JACK RAFTERS. 

Before proceeding further with the subject of roof 
framing we will illustrate a very simple method for 
obtaining the bevel across the back of jack rafters, 
or any rafter which cuts on a bevel across the back. 
Referring to Fig. 60, draw the plumb line or pitch of 
the roof on the side of the rafter B C. Next draw 
another plumb line the thickness of the rafter from 
the first, and measured square from B C, as shown 




Fig. 59.— D agram for Half Pitch 
Roofs. 



THE builders' GUIDE. 83 

by the dotted lines. Square across the back of the 
rafter, from the dotted plumb line to A. Connect 
A with B, and the lines to follow in cutting are A B 
C. This plan is worth remembering, as it will work 
on roofs of any pitch, and, in fact, will cut the bevel 
across the back of any rafter which cuts on a be\ el. It 
is the plumb cut and the thickness of the rafter applied 
in the manner described that does the business every 
time. After the cuts have 
been found bevels can 
be set for them if desired. 

BACKING HIP RAFTERS. 

Let us now consider 

the backing of the hip 

rafter, an item which on 

common house and barn 

framing is of but little 

^ .^ . 11 Fig. 60.— Obtaininsr Bevel Across 

importance, yet it is well ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ j^^,^ ^^^^^^^ 

enough to know how it 

is done. Almost any roof is as good without as 
with the hips backed, and when the roof is com- 
pleted it is impossible to tell which method was 
pursued. In cases where the hip rafter is doubled or 
very thick it is advisable to back it, but ordinarily 
this is unnecessary, being a waste of time. Where 
backing is necessary, a rule near enough for all prac- 
tical purposes is as follows : Working from the cen- 
ter of the back of rafter set the bevel to cut off 

% inch in 1 inch for three-fourth pitch roofs. 
1^ inch in 1 inch for one-half pitch roofs. 
}i inch in 1 inch for one-third pitch roofs. 
^ inch in 1 inch for one-quarter pitch roof^. 




84 THE builders' GUIDE. 

As the above table may not be considered a scien- 
tific way of doing the work, Fig. 6i is presented. 
Draw a horizontal line, A B, and from A draw 
another at an angle representing the bottom cut of 
the hip rafter, as A C. On the line A C square up 
the thickness of the rafter to D. Mark the center 
and draw the line C F at an angle of 45° to A D. On 
the line E F square up from E to G, and the lines 




Fig. 61.— Backing- a Hip Eaf ter. 

for the backing are G E F. The other lines are 
merely to show that the piece is off the bottom end 
of the hip rafter itself. 

HIP ROOFS OF UNEQUAL PITCHES. 

In Fig. 62 is shown the manner ia which the 
method represented in Fig. 58 may be varied to meet 
the requirements of roofs of unequal pitches. Draw 
the line A B, in length equal to the runs of the com- 
mon rafters on both the long and short sides of the 
hips. Divide the line A B so that A C will represent 
the run of the common rafter on the long side of the 
hip, and C B the run of the common rafter on the 
short side. From C erect a perpendicular line, ex- 
tending It indefinitely. Set off on the perpendicular 
line the rise of the common rafter C D. Connect D 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



85 



with A and with B for the lengths of the common 
rafters. A bevel set at D on line A D will give 
the top cut of common rafter on the long side of hip 
and at A the bottom cut. A bevel set at D on line 
B D will give the top cut of common rafter on the 
short side of hip and at B the bottom cut. Next set 
off on the perpendicular line the length of the com- 
mon rafter on the short side of the hip C E. Con- 
nect E with A for the length of the hip and position 
for finding the length and bevel of jacks on the short 
side of the hip. 
A bevel set in 
the angle where 
they join the hip 
line A E will 
give the bevel 
across the back. 
The plumb cut 
or down bevel is 
the same as that 
of the common 
rafter on the 
short side of the 
hip shown at D 
on the line D B. Next set off on perpendicular the 
length of common rafter on the long side of hip C F; 
connect F with B for the hip and position for finding 
the length and bevel of jacks on the long side of the hip. 
A bevel set in the angle where they join the hip line 
F B will give the bevel across the back. The plumb 
cut or down bevel is the same as that of the common 
rafter on the long side of the hip, shown at D on the 
line AD. To find the cut of the hip rafter set off 




A 

Vig. G2.— Diagram Showing how Method Pre- 
sented in Fig. 58 may be Varied for Roofs 
of Unequal Pitches. 



8b THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

on the perpendicular the run of the common rafter 
on the short side of hip C a. Connect a with A for 
the run of the hip. Square up the rise of the hip a H 
and connect H with A for the hip rafter. A bevel 
set in the angle at H will give the top cut and at A 
the bottom cut. It will be noticed that the lines, B F, 
A E and A H show the length of the hip rafters. 
B F shows hip rafter in position for finding the length 
and bevel of the jacks on the long side of the hip. 
A E shows the hip in position for finding the length 
and bevel of the jacks on the short side of the hip. 
A H shows the hip in position for finding the length 
and bevel of the hip rafter. For plain hips and val- 
leys on roofs of equal pitch no one could wish for an 
easier method than represented in Fig. 58, but Fig. 
62, which has been modified to meet the requirements 
of roofs of unequal pitches, necessarily makes the 
method more complicated, and with beginners there is 
much danger of making mistakes by taking measure- 
ments and bevels on tlie wrong side, as the lengths 
of jacks for the long side of roof appear on the short 
run of common rafter, and vice versa the jacks for the 
short side of roof. This circumstance may seem 
somewhat strange, yet it is nevertheless true, and 
can perhaps be more fully demonstrated by Fig. 63. 

GREAT CIRCLE OF JACK RAFTERS. 

The great circle of jack rafters is another modifica- 
tion of Fig. 58 for roofs of unequal pitches. Refer- 
ring to Fig. d-i^^ let A B represent the long run of 
common rafter, B E the rise and A E the length. 
A bevel set at E on the line A E will give the down 
bevel and at A the bottom bevel. B C is the short 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



87 



run of common rafters, B E the rise and C E the 
length. A bevel set at E on the line C E will 
give the down bevel and at C the bottom bevel. B 
D is the short run of the common rafter and the same 
as B C ; then A D is the angle and run of the hip, 



. o^^ 



(xt CIRCLE OF J4c^ 





/ / 

V 


^ 


H 


/ 




/ 


x^ 


A 




\ 
E 


^ 


N ' 


.M"^ 










^ 


/ 


A^ B 








\ 




1 






^ 


-^^ 



Fig. 



c 
J 

-Great Circle of Jack Rafters. 



D F the rise, and A F the length of hip rafter. The 
bevel at F is the down bevel and at A the bottom 
bevel. A H shows the hip rafter A F dropped down 
in position to find the length and bevel of the jacks 
for the side of roof having the short run of common 
rafter. Space the jacks on the line A B and draw 
perpendicular lines joining the hip line A H for the 



88 THE builders' guide. 

length of jacks. A bevel set in the angle at G will 
give the bevel across the back. The down bevel is 
the same as that of the common rafter for the short 
run and is shown at E on the line C E. H is the 
apex of the triangle formed on the side of the roof 
having the short run of common rafter. It is evident 
that the apex of the triangle formed on the side of 
the roof having the long run of the common rafter 
must be at the same point, therefore H is the apex of 
the hip and of the common rafters from either side 
of the hip. Now, to find the length and bevel of 
jacks on the side of roof having the long run of com- 
mon rafter, measure down from H to I the length of 
the common rafter on the long run, which is the 
same as A E. From I set off the short run of com- 
mon rafter to J ; connect J with H, which places the 
hip rafter in position for finding the length and bevel 
of jacks on the side of roof having the long run of 
common rafter. Space the jacks on the line I J and 
draw perpendicular lines, joining the hip line J H, 
which gives che length of jacks. A bevel set in the 
angle at K will give the bevel across the back. The 
down bevel is the same as that of the common rafter 
for the long run, and is shown at E on the line A E. 
The circular lines show that taking H as a center the 
triangle H I J will swing around opposite the triangle 
A B H, and bring every jack opposite its mate on 
the hip line A H, thus proving the correctness of the 
method, as well as showing how to space the jacks 
correspondingly. 

In Fig. 64 is shown another method for obtaining 
the lengths and cuts of rafters in hip roofs of un- 
equal pitch. Let ABC represent the wall plate and 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE, 89 

D E F the deck plate; then A E is the run of the 
common rafter on the short side of the hip, E D the 
rise and A D the length. 

The bevel at D is the plumb cut at the top and at 
A the bottom cut. From A set off the length of the 
common rafter to G, which should be the same 
length as A D. Connect B G, which places the hip 
rafter in position to find the length and bevel of 
jacks on the short side of the hip. Space the jacks on 
the line B A, and draw perpendicular lines joining the 
hip line B G for the length of the jacks on the short 
side of the hip. The bevel at J is the bevel across 
the back of the same. The plumb cut or down bevel 
is the same as that of the common rafter shown at D. 
C E is the run of the common rafter on the long side 
of the hip, E F being the rise and C F the length. 
The bevel pX F is the plumb cut at the top and at C 
the bottom cut. From C set off the length of the 
common rafter to H, which should be the same length 
as C F. Connect B H, which places the hip rafter in 
position to find length and bevel of jacks on the 
long side of the hip. Space the jacks on the line B 
C and draw the same, joining the hip line B H, which 
will give the length of jacks on the long side of the 
hip. The bevel at K is the bevel across the back. The 
plumb cut or down bevel is the same as that of the 
common rafter shown at F. BE is the angle and run 
of the hip, E I the rise and B I the length of the hip 
rafter. The bevel at I is the plumb cut at the top 
and at B the bottom cut fitting the plate. Now , 
the lines B G, B H and B I show the hip rafter in 
three different positions for finding the length and 
bevels of the jacks and the hip, and are practically 



90 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



the same as shown in Fig. 62. Of the two plans Fig. 
64 is perhaps plainer and more easily understood, yet 
both have the common difficulty, a confusion of cross 
lines, which is very bothersome to many who are try- 
ing to master the art of roof framing. To make this 
system of roof framing so plain that even the most 
inexperienced may readily master it, we will show 




Fie. 61.— Another Method of Obtaining Lengths and Cuts of Rafters 
in Hip Koofa of Unequal Pitches. 

how the first simple method, Fig. 57, may be further 
extended to meet the requirements of any roof, show- 
ing ail the rafters without the usual complications 
of cross lines. The plan never fails on roofs of any 
pitch, equal or unequal, and, no matter how compli- 
cated the roof may be, it will all appear easy by this 
method. 

COMPLICATED ROOF FRAMING MADE EASY. 

Let us now take the plan of a hip roof building 
having a long run of common rafter on one side of 
the hip and a short run on the opposite side, This 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



91 



kind of a hip is called an 
base line or run of the hip 
with the plates, as in the 
A B is the run of common 
the hip and the long run. 
mon rafter on the right sid 
run, A D being the run of 
make everything plain an 



rregular hip, because the 
is not on an angle of 45*^ 
regular hip. In Fig. 65 
rafter on the left side of 
B D is the run of com- 
e of the hip and the short 
the hip rafter. Now, to 
d avoid the confusion of 




^ B 

Fig-. 65. — Plan of an Irregular Hip Roof. 

cross lines which are so troublesome to the inex- 
perienced it is better to make separate diagrams 
showing each succeeding step as the plan progresses 
until all is made clear; then one can adopt the plan 
of separate diagrams or he can combine the whole in 
one if desired. To beginners separate diagrams are 
recommended, especially in connection with compli- 
cated roofs. 

Referring now to Fig. 66, A B is the run of com- 
mon rafter on the left side of the hip, B E the rise: 
of roof and AE the length of common. rafter for the 



92 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 




Fig. 66. — Diagram for Finding the 
Lengths and Bevels cf Rafters for 
Irregular fiip Roofs. 



long run. A bevel set in the angle at E will be the 
plumb cut or down bevel at the top, and a bevel 
set at A will give the bottom cut fitting the plate. 
Next set off the run of common rafter on the right 

side of the hip, B C, 
if and connect E with 

C for the length of 
the common rafter 
for the short run. A 
bevel set in the an- 
gle at E will give the 
down bevel at the 
top and at C the bot- 
tom cut. We will 
now proceed to find 
the hip rafter and 
bevels for cutting the 
same. A B is the run of the common rafter on the 
left side of the hip, B D the run of common rafter 
on right side of hip, while A D is the run and angle 
the hip makes with the plates. From D square up 
the rise of the roof to F; connect F with A, and we 
have the length of hip rafter. A bevel set in the 
angle at F v/ill give the down bevel at the top and at 
A the bottom bevel fitting the plate. 

The next step will be to show the length and bev- 
els of the jack rafters. Referring now to Fig. 67, 
draw a horizontal line, as A C, representing the 
length of plate in the plan. From A set off the run 
of the common rafter on the left or long run to B. 
From B erect a perpendicular to F, which is the 
length of common rafter on the short run and 
shown by E C in Fig. 66. Connect F with A, and 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



93 



the hip line is in position for finding the lengths and 
bevels of the jacks on the side of the building having 
the short run of common rafter. Space the jacks on 
the line A B and draw perpendicular lines joining 
the hip line. This will give the lengths of jacks, and 
a bevel set in the angle at G will give the bevel 
across the back of the same The plumb cut or 
down bevel will be the same as that of the common 
rafter on the sh rt run. F D shows the length of 
ridge and the space which the common rafters oc- 




A BE C 

Fig 67 —Lengths and Levels of Jack 1-afters. 



cupy. C E D shows a space for jacks similar to A B 
F. It is unnecessary to draw the jacks in this space, 
and it is therefore left blank. The next step will be 
to find the lengths and bevels of the jacks on the 
end of the building having the long run of the com- 
mon rafter. Referring to Fig. 6S, let A C represent 
the v/idth of he building, A B the run of the com- 
m n rafter on short run, B F the length of com- 
mon rafter on long run i nd ; he same as shov/n by A 
E in Fig. 66. Space the line A B for the jacks and 
draw perpendicular lines joining the hips. A bevel 
set in the angle at L will give tfie bevel across the 



94 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 




back. The plumb cut or down bevel will be the 
same as that of the common rafter on the lonjEf run. 
Now everything desired has been shown, and with 
out the confusion of cross-lines. By this method all 
complications in roof 
framing are made easy. 
And the most difficult 
roofs will show the su- 
periority of this plan, as it 
is rarely ever necessary 
to cross a line, and if 
necessary every rafter 
may be shown. For roofs 
having hips and gables of 
varying pitches this plan 
has no equal. In Fig. 69 
is shown how Figs. 66, 67 
and 68 may be combined to indicate the differe t 
lengths and cuts of all the rafters directly from the 
plan. 

This method is attended with many cross lines and 
is not recommended even to the most experienced, 
for, in connection with complicated roofs, there is 
danger of making mistakes. Referring to the plan, 
Fig. 69, A B is the run of the common rafter on the 
left side of the hip, and the long run B E is the rise, 
A E being the length. A bevel set at E on the line 
A E will give the plumb cut or down bevel, and at 
A the bottom bevel. B C is the run of the common 
rafter on the right side of the hip, and the short run 
B E the rise and E C the length. A bevel set at E, 
on the line C E, will give the plumb cut or down bevel, 
and at C the bottom bevel. 



Fig. 68.— Finding Lengtlfs and 
Bevels of Jack Rafters on the 
End of Building Having the 
long run of the Common Rafter. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



95 



A B is the long run of the common rafter, B D 
the short run of the common rafter, A D the 
angle and run of the hip, D F the rise of the 
hip and A F the length of hip rafter. The bevel 
at F is the down bevel and at A the bottom bevel. 
B H is the length of the common rafter for the short 



X 






y 




Si 


y^ 


r 


HA H 


y/^ 


/ 


^\ 


^ ^ 




f 


X E 



I- 



Fig. 69.— Showing how several Diagrams may be combined to indicate 
directly from the Plan the different Length and Cuts of all the 
Rafters. 



run and the same as C E, while A H is the hip 
dropped down in position for finding lengths and 
bevel for jacks on the side of the roof having the 
short run of the common rafter. The jacks are 
spaced on the line A B and drawn perpendicular, 
joining the hip line AH. A bevel set in the angle at 
G will give the bevel across the back. 

The plumb cut or down bevel is the same as that 
of the common rafter on the short run, and is shown 
at E on the line E. C. The letters I J represent the 
length of the common rafter for the long run., which is 



96 The builders^ guide. 

the same as A E ; then J K is the length and position 
of the hip for finding lengths and bevel for the back 
of the jacks on the side having the long run of the 
common rafter. Space the jacks on the line I K and 
draw them at right angles joining the hip line K J. 
A bevel set in the angle at L will give the bevel 
across the back of the sam.e, the down bevel being 
the same as that of the common rafter on the long run. 
It is shown at E on line E A. In Fig. 69 all the work 
is shown in one diagram very plainly, yet to many it 
may appear somewhat complicated. Two pitches in 
one roof always make a complication of bevels, often 
requiring many lines to illustrate. As a proof of 
the correctness of this method observe the following 
point : A F, A H and J K each represent the hip 
rafter, showing it in different positions, and if the 
work is right these lines must be of the same length. 
A F is the position of the hip for finding the cuts, 
while A H is the position of the hip for finding the 
bevel for the back of the jack on the short run. J K 
is the position for finding the bevel for back of jack 
on the long run. Having shown the most practical 
system of hip roof framing, let us now consider its 
application to some of the most complicated plans 
which frequently come up in actual practice. 

HIPS ON END OF BUILDING OUT OF SQUARE. 

A plan of a hip roof with one end out of square is 
shown in Fig. 70. Let A B C D represent the plates 
in the plan ; D E C the angle and run of hips on the 
square end of the plan, and A F B the angle and run 
of hips on the end which is out of square. In order 
to determine the point F so that the ridge of the roof 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



91 



wiK be level, make A F H equal to D E G in the 
plan. From F on line A F square up the rise of hip 
to I, which connect with A for the hip rafter. Then 
I is the down and A the bottom bevels. The hip 
rafters on the square end of the plan will be the 
same length as A I and will have the same bevels. 
From F, on the line B F, square up the rise of roof to 




A H M D 

F g. 70.— Plan of Hip Roof with One End out of Square. 



J, which connect with B for the length of the hip on 
the long corner. Then J is the down and B the bot- 
tom bevel. K F is the run, F L the rise and K L 
the length of the common rafter on the end of plan 
which is out of square. L is the down bevel and K 
the bottom bevel. M N O shows the rise, run and 
length of the common rafter on the main plan, O be- 
ing the down bevel and M the bottom bevel. 

To avoid the great confusion of cross lines which 
would now follow if the work was further developed 
in Fig. 70, we will dispense with this plan, only tak- 



98 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



ing from it measurements to develop the new lines 
and bevels of the rafters. Referring now to Fig. 71, 
let A D represent the plate, A H the run of the com- 
mon rafter and H I the length of the common rafter 
on the main roof, which is the same as M O of Fig. 
70. Connect I with A for the position of the hip for 
finding the lengths and bevels of jacks on the front 
side of plan. Space the rafters on the line A D and 
draw them perpendicular to the hip. 

A bevel set in the angle where they join the hip 





Fig. 71.— Diagram for Finding Lengths and Bevels of 
Jacks on Front Side of Plan, Fig. 70. 



line will give the bevel across the back of the jacks, 
the down bevel being the same as that of the com- 
mon rafter on the main part. It is shown at O in 
Fig. 70. The lengths and bevels of the jacks on the 
square end of the plan will be the same as the part 
of the roof already illustrated. The hip rafter D E 
is the same as A I. We will now consider the end of 
the plan which is out of square. Referring to Fig. 
72, the lines B C A show how much the plan is out of 
square. A B is the plate, K L the length of the 
common rafter on the end of plan, being the same as 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



99 




K L of Fig. 70 ; B L the hip on the long corner, be- 
ing the same as B J of Fig. 70, while A L is the hip 
on the short corner, and is the same as A I of Fig. 
70. Space the jacks on the line B A and draw 
them perpendicular, joining B A with the hip lines 
B L A, which gives the 
lengths of jacks on this 
end of the plan. The 
bevel at E is the bevel 
across the back joining 
the long hip. The bevel 
at F is the bevel across 
the back joining the short 
hip. The down bevel is 
the same as that of the 
common rafter shown at 
L in Fig. 70. We have 
now to find the lengths 
and bevels of the jacks 
on the rear side of the long hip. Referring to Fig. 
73, B C represents the rear plate, B D is the square 
of the hip, being the same as B P of Fig 70; D L the 
length of the common rafter, being the same as O M 
of Fig. 70, while B L is the position of the hip for 
finding the lengths and bevels of jacks on the rear 
side of the long hip, and is of the same length as 
B L of Fig. 72. The jacks are spaced wider on B D, 
Fig. 73, than on B K, Fig. 72, in order that they may 
meet opposite on the hip B L. Draw the jacks per- 
pendicular from B D, Fig. 73, joining the hip B L, 
which will give their lengths. A bevel set in the angle 
at E where they join the hip will give the bevel across 
the back. The down bevel will be the same as that 



Fig:. 72.— Diagram of End of Plan 
Out of Square. 



100 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



of the common rafter on the main part or this side 
of the roof. 

GABLES OF DIFFERENT PITCHES. 

In Fig. 74 is represented a plan of a roof having three 
gables of varying pitches. The right gable A B C is 
i6 feet wide and has a rise of 8 feet. The front 
gable D F G is i8 feet wide and has a rise of 8 feet. 
The last gable J I H is 2i feet wide and has a rise of 
8 feet. It will be noticed that the left gable has two 
different pitches. This plan shows as much irregu- 




F>g. 73.- 



-Diaprram for Finding the Lengths and Bevels of the 
Jacks on the Rear Side of the Long Hip. 



larity as can be desired and as much as is generally 
encountered in actual practice. We will now proceed 
to find the lengths and different cuts of the various 
rafters required in this roof. The dotted lines repre- 
sent lines plumb under the ridge of the gables. The 
lengths of the common rafters and their proper cuts 
may be taken from each of the three gables sepa- 
rately, and are so plain and easily understood from 
the diagram that further explanation is unnecessary. 
The roof has two valleys of different pitches, of which 
the lines N L K are the seats or runs. To f\n6. the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



101 



length of the valley rafter on the right side of the 
front gable on the line K L, square up the rise of the 
roof from L to M, connect M with K, and we have 
the length of the valley rafter. A bevel set in the an- 
gle at M will give the down bevel at the top and the 
angle at K the bottom cut fitting the plate. To find 
the length of the valley rafter on the left side of the 
front gable on the line N L, square up the rise of the 
roof from L to O and connect O with N for the 




Fig. 74.— Plan of Roof having Three Gables of Varying Pitches. 

length of the valley rafter. A bevel set in the angle 
at O will give the down bevel at the top and the an- 
gle at N the bottom cut fitting the plate. Now, if 
we were to draw all the lines in Fig, 74 necessary to 
show the lengths and proper cuts of all the different 
jack rafters required in this roof, there would be such 
a number crossing each other at various angles as to 
cause confusion. In this roof there are four different 
cuts of jack rafters, and it is better not to have them 



102 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



mixed up with the valleys and common rafters, hence 
we will make separate diagrams. 

Referring: now to Fig. 75, to find the lengths and 
bevels of jacks on the front side of right and left 
gables, draw a horizontal line, J A, representing the 
entire length of front plate line. Next set off the ex- 
act location of the front gable N K. From the cen- 
ter of the front gable draw a perpendicular line, S O, 
the length of the common rafter on the front side of 




Fig. 75,— Finding' Lengths and Bevels of Jack Rafters on the 
Front Side of Right and Left Gables Shown in Fig. 74. 

the left gable, the same as J I in Fig. 74. Connect 
O with N for the position of the valley rafter for 
finding the lengths and bevels of jacks on the front 
side of the left gable. Square up the length of the 
common rafter on the front side of the left gable J I 
and connect I O for the ridge line. Space the rafters 
on the ridge line and draw perpendicular lines 
to the plate and valley, which will give the lengths of 
the jacks on the front side of tlie left gable. A bevel 
set in the angle at W where they join the valley will 
give the bevel across the back. The plumb cut or 
down bevel will be same as that of the common rafter 
on the front side of the left gable. To find the lengths 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



103 



and bevels of jacks on the front side of right gable, 

set off the length of common rafter from the center 

of the front gable S M, which is the same as A B of 

Fig. 74. Connect M with K for the position of the 

valley rafter for finding the lengths and bevels of the 

jacks on the front side of the right gable. Square 

up the length of the common rafter on the right gable 

A B and connect B M for the ridge line. Space the 

jacks on the ridge line and draw perpendicular lines 

to the plate and valley, which will give the lengths of 

the jacks on the front side of the right gable. A 

bevel set in the angle at Z where they join the 

valley will give the 

bevel across the back. 

The plumb cut or down 

bevel will be the same 

as that of the common 

rafter on the right 

gable. The lines N F K 

show the length of the 

common rafter on the 
Fig-. 76.— Finding Lengths and Bevels 

of the Jack Rafters on the Bight f^Ont gable. 

Side of the Front Gable. To find the lengths 

and bevels of the jacks 
on the right side of the front gable draw a horizon- 
tal line G C, Fig. 76, representing the plate line. 
On this line set off the location of the right gable 
K C. From the center of the gable set off the length 
of common rafter on the front gable T M, which is 
the same as G F of Fig. 74. Connect M with K for 
the position of valley rafter for finding the lengths 
and bevels of jacks on the right side of the front gable. 
Square up the length of the common rafter on th^ 




104 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



front gable, G F, and connect F M for the ridge line. 
Space the jacks on the ridge line and draw perpen- 
dicular lines to the plate and valley, which will give 
the lengths of the jacks on the right side of the 
front gable. A bevel set in the angle at Y will give 
the bevel across the back. The plumb cut or down 
bevel will be the same as that of the common rafter 
on the front gable The lines K B C show the length 
of the common rafter on the right gable. To find 
the lengths and bevels of the jacks on the left side 

of the front gable draw 
F ^ horizontal line, as H 

D of Fig. 77, represent- 
ing the plate line. On 
this line set off the lo- 
cation of the left gable, 
H N. From R, the 
point directly under 
the ridge of this gable, 
length of 
the common rafter on 
the front gable R O, 
which is the same as D F of Fig. 74. Connect 
O N for the position of the valley for finding 
the lengths and bevels of the jacks on the left 
side of the front gable. A bevel set in the angle at 
X will give the bevel across the back. The plumb 
cut or down bevel will be the same as that of the 
common rafter on the front gable. The lines H I J 
show the lengths of the common rafters on the left 
gable. 

In order to throw as much light as possible upon 
the subject and present a choice of methods, we will 




Fig. 77.— Finding Lengths and Bevels ^^^ ^^ ^^^ 
of Jacks on the Left Side of the 
Front Gable. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



105 



give another diagram showing the different cuts of 
the jack rafters in a much plainer manner, and 
which to many, perhaps, will be more satisfactory. 
Fig. 78 shows the wall plate lines exactly the same 
as in Fig. 74, except it is divided on the ridge line of 
the front gable, and spread so far apart that when 
the roof is developed, showing the different jack raft- 
ers in their various positions, there will not be a 




Fig. 7P.— Diagram Showing- More Clearly the Different Cuts 
of Jack Eafters. 

series of lines crossing each other to cause confusion. 
Let H, C, A, K, G, D, N, J, represent the wall plate 
lines. The dotted lines R L S and S^ L^ T are the 
lines plumb under the ridge of the gables. We 
will now proceed to find the jack rafters and 
their proper cuts : Taking the left gable first on the 
line J H, set off the length of the common rafter 
from J to I ; from I, at right angles, draw the line 
I O, which is the ridge proper and extends to the 



106 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 

center of the front gable represented by the dotted 
line L S ; connect O with N for the valley rafter ; 
on the line I O space off the jacks and draw the 
lines connecting them with the valley N O, as shown 
in the diagram. This will give the lengths of the 
jacks in the left gable, and a bevel set in the angle at 
W will give the bevel across the backs of the same. 
The down bevel will be the same as that of the com- 
mon rafter on the front side of the left gable. A 
similar plan is followed for each gable or each side of 
a gable, where the jack rafters are of different lengths 
or liave different cuts, as will be readily seen by 
referring to the diagram. The valley lines N O and 
N O^ are of the same length and show the valley 
rafters in different positions for finding the lengths 
and cuts of the two divisions of jacks — namely, the 
left gable and the left side of the front gable. The 
valley lines K M and K M^ are of the same length, 
but show the valley rafter in different positions for 
finding the lengths and cuts of the other two divis- 
ions of jacks — namely, the right gable and the right 
side of the front gable. 

Now elevate the four sections of the roof contain- 
ing the different jacks to their proper pitch, and move 
the two divisions of the diagram together till the 
dotted lines L S and L^ S^ meet plumb under the ridge 
of the front gable. What is the result ? NO and N 
O' join as one line and constitute the left valley. K 
M and K M^ also join as one line and constitute the 
right valley. This would also bring every jack into 
its required position in the roof, as can be plainly 
seen in the diagram. The cuts of the two valley 
rafters must be t^ken from Fig. 74^ as showii ^n4 d^- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 107 

scribed before. The cuts could be shown in Fig. 78, 
but as they would only serve to make the diagram 
more complicated, they are omitted. If any one 
would like to see a diagram showing all the rafters 
and different cuts in a roof of this kind, they can 
draw the lines of Figs. 74 and 78 in one diagram. If 
they will imagine one of these diagrams placed over 
the other, the result will probably be satisfactory. 

HIP AND VALLEY ROOFS. 

In Fig. 79 is represented the plan of a hip and 
valley roof. This form of a roof is frequently termed 
broken-back hip and valley, because the main hips 
are intersected by the common rafters of the gables 
from one side and the valley rafters from the other. 
This breaks the line of the hip, hence the origin of 
the term broken-back. In Fig. 79 let A B, B C, D E 
and E F represent the line and run of the four main 
hips. It will be seen that C B is the only hip line 
which is not broken by a common rafter or a jack 
from the gables. The main hip line A B is broken at 
H by the common rafter on the front gable which 
joins it, as shown by the dotted line G H. If A was 
the bottom terminus of the hip it would cause several 
of the common rafters on the left side of the front 
gable to be cut in two, making more jacks and more 
work, while weakening the general construction of 
the roof. In framing, the hip should stop against 
the ridge of the front gable at H. The hip line D E 
is broken at I by a jack on the left gable, shown by 
dotted line I J. In framing, the hip should stop 
against the ridge of the left gable at I. The hip line 
F E is broken at K by the intersection of the valley 



108 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



rafter L K. For a scientific job of framing the valley 
rafter ^ ^ on the front side of right gable should ex- 
tend to the ridge of the rear gable, as it is the nearest 
place of support, and the hip rafter E F should stop 
at c against the valleys b. The line B C is the run 
of the only hip rafter which forms an unbroken line. 




. 79.-P an of Hip and Valley Roof. 



From B square down the rise of the hip to M, 
and connect M with C for the length of the hip 
rafter. A bevel set at M will give the down bevel 
and at C the bottom bevel. The method of obtaining 
the lengths of the hip rafters, which are termed 
broken back, will be plainly illustrated in other dia- 
grams. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



109 



Before proceeding further, however, the reader 
should be reminded of the fact that on one-half pitch 
roofs the run of a hip or valley is the length of a cor- 
responding common rafter, hence the dotted line D I 
shows the length of the common rafter on the left gable 
for a roof of one-half pitch. If the roof was some other 
pitch — say one-third, for example — then the length 
of the common rafter for this gable could be shown 
by setting off the run and rise, as indicated by d e f. 















c 
/ 


N 
















J 


A 


/ 


\ 


N 






k/ 


\ 
\ 


\ 




> 


k 














\ 




H 


t 

111 

-1 




\ 


\ 














y 


1\ 








\ 


\ 







AC F D E B 

FRONT SIDE 

Fig. 80. -Front Elevation of Foof Plan Shown in Figr. 79. 

Proceed in like manner with the gables, and also with 
the main common rafter. Fortunately, there is always 
an easy way of doing work, and we will now proceed 
with the method that makes all roof framing easy. 
Referring to Fig. 8o, first draw a horizontal line, A 
B, representing the front plate, and set off on this line 
the location or starting points of all hips and gables 
shown on the front of plan as C D E. Now, C E 
represents the starting points of two of the main 
hips, and also the span of the building having the 
longest common rafter, F being the center of the 



110 THE builders' GUIDE. 

span. From F set off the length of the common 
rafter perpendicularly, as shown by the dotted line F 
G. Connect G with C and E for the length and 
position of the main hips. Set off the length of the 
common rafter on the right gable B H, and draw the 
ridge line H I; then I E is the length and position of 
the right gable valley rafter. Set off the length of 
common rafter on the left-hand gable A J and draw 
the ridge line J K; then K C is the length and posi- 
tion of the left-gable valley. Connect K D for the 
front-gable valley. Space and draw the rafters as 
shown, which will give the length and cut of every 
jack in the front elevation, including those which cut 
from the broken hip K G to the valley K D. The 
line K G is also the length of the broken hip, which 
stops against the ridge of the left gable. A bevel 
set in any of the angles where the jacks join a hip 
or valley will give bevel across the back. The plumb 
cut is the same as that of the common rafter. C L 
shows the length of the common rafter on the front 
gable. 

In Fig. 8i is shown the right elevation of the roof 
plan, A B representing the length of plate line, C D 
E F the starting points of the hips and valleys on 
the right side of plan, while C and F are the starting 
points of the main hips. From C and F set off the 
run of the main common rafter as C N and F O. 
From N and O set off the length of the main com- 
mon rafter, as shown by the dotted lines N G and O 
P. Connect G and P, which is the ridge of the main 
roof. Connect G C and F P for the main hips. Set 
off the length of the common rafter on the rear 
gable B H and draw the ridge line H I. Set off the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Ill 



length of the common ratter on the front gable A J 
and draw the ridge line J K. From the center of 
the right gable set off the length of the common 
rafter, as shown by the dotted line L M. Draw the 
valley from D through the point M, continuing it to 
the ridge line or rear gable, which is the nearest place 
of support. Then D R is the length of the valley 
rafter on the front side of the right gable. Connect 
M E for the valley on the back side of the right 
gable. C G is the main hip, which is full length. 



/ 


/ 


// 


\ 


N' 


F 


\ 












H 


J K, 


/ 


Y 


\ 


\ 

\ 


\ 


\ 












jl 


/ 


/ 


/ 


/ 


< 

\ 


^ 



D N O L 
RIGHT SIDE 



Fig. 81.— Right Elevation of Roof Plan Shown in Fig. 79. 

C Kis the front gable valley, and the jacks are cut 
from the ridge line J K to the valley C K, also from the 
plate C D to the main hip C G, and from the ridge 
G P to the valley D M. The main hip P F is broken 
at I, but extends to the valley rafter D R for a proper 
place of support. Jacks are cut from the ridge line 
I H and the valley line M R to the valley M E, as 
shown. The dotted portion of the hip line P F 
shows that if the hip was put in full length it would 
necessitate cutting two common rafters and two 



1]2 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



jacks on the rear gable, which would make additional 
work and have a tendency to weaken the roof. 
Thus the length of every rafter in the right elevation 
of the plan has been shown, and as the bevels are 
the same as indicated in Figs. 79 and 80 further ex- 
planation is unnecessary. 

In Fig. 82 is shown the left side elevation of the 
roof, in which A B represents the length of the plate 
line. CDF, the starting points of the hips and 
valleys, and C and F the points of the main hips. 























P G 




















/ 




\ 


H 


1/ 








\ 


















/ 


\ 














J 


/ 












\k 














\ 














\ 
























} t 


k\ 














\ 




















// 


\N 














\ 
















/ 




\ 














\ 








6 




F 








L 






c 


) [ 


) 












c 






A 



Fig. 82.— Left Side Elevation of Roof. 



From C and F set off the run of the main common 
rafter, as C D and F O. From O and D set off the 
length of main common rafter, as shown by the 
dotted lines O P and D G. Connect G and P for the 
main ridge. Draw G C and P F for length and 
position of main hips. Set off the length of the com- 
mon rafter on the front gable A J and draw the 
ridge line J K. Set off the length of common rafter 
on the rear gable B H and draw the ridge line H I. 
Now from the center of the left gable set off the 



THE builders' GUIDE. 113 

length of the common rafter, as shown by the dotted 
line L M. Connect M and D for length and position 
of valley rafter on the front side of the left gable. 
F I will be the length of the valley on the rear gable. 
M P is the length of the broken hip which stops 
against the ridge of the left gable at M, and G K is 
the length of the broken hip which stops against the 
ridge of the front gable at K. The jacks are cut 
from the ridge line H I to the rear gable valley F I ; 
also from the broken hip M P to the valley M D and 
from the broken hip G K and ridge line K J to the 
plate line A D. The length of the common rafter on 
the left gable is shown by F E. This completes the 
left side elevation and shows the length of every hip, 
valley and jack, as viewed from this side of the roof. 
The next diagram, Fig. S;^, shows the rear eleva- 
tion of the roof ; A B represents the length of the 
plate line, C D E the starting points of hips and 
valleys, and C E the starting points of the main 
hips. Set off the run of the main common rafter, as 
E F, and draw the length of the common rafter 
perpendicular, as shown by dotted line F P. Draw 
P E and P C for the length and position of the main 
hips. Set off the length of the common rafter on 
the left gable, A J, and draw the ridge line J K. Set 
off the length of the common rafter on the right 
gable B H, and draw the ridge line H I. From the 
center of the rear gable set off the length of the 
common rafter, as shown by the dotted line L M. 
Connect M and D for the rear gable valley. E G 
shows the length of the common rafter on the rear 
gable ; I E is the right gable valley. The broken 
hip P K stops against the ridge of the left gable at 



114 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE, 



K, and the broken hip P M stops at the ridge of the 
rear gable at M. The jacks are cut from the ridge 
line H I to the valley E I and from the broken 
hips M P and P K to the rear gable valley M D. 
This completes the rear elevation and shows the 
length of every rafter as viewed from this side of the 
roof. It will be noticed in Fig. 83 that the right 
gable appears to the left hand in the diagram and the 
left gable to the right. This is due to the fact that 




Fiff.fi 



-Rear Elevation of Roof. 



as we view the front elevation of the roof, Fig. 80, we 
call the gables right and left. Now, if we view the 
roof from the rear, the right gable will be to our left 
and the left to our right, as shown in Fig. S^. 

AN IMPORTANT POINT. 

For the purpose of illustrating an important point 
in roof framing we will refer to Fig. 84, which repre- 
sents the plan of a roof having three gables of the 
same pitch, but the front gable being narrower than 
the other two. Let ABCDEFGH represent 
the wall plate and from A set off the run of the com- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



115 



mon rafter to I ; square up the rise to J, and connect 
A and J for the length of the common rafter on the 
main part of the roof. Swing the common rafter 
around to a perpendicular position, as shown by A K 
on the left gable. Set off the length of the common 
rafter on the right gable F L, and connect K with L 
for the ridge line. Next, set off the run of the com- 
mon rafter on the front gable E M ; square up the 



p 


~~~^-^ 


/ 


/ 


) 


^ 


Vb| 


\ 

N 


\ 


^ 


k 








V 

N 




A B 


M 


E 


F 



Fig. 84.— Roof Having Three Gables of the same Pitch, the Front 
Gable being Narrower than the other Two. 

rise M N, and draw E N for the length of the com- 
mon rafter. From M set off the length of the com- 
mon rafter perpendicular to O and then draw the 
valley from E through the point O, continuing it to 
the ridge, which is the nearest place of support in a 
self-supporting roof. It is a common practice among 
mechanics to stop both valley rafters at O, but this 
leaves the valleys without support and as a conse- 
quence the roof sags and gets out of shape even be- 
fore the carpenter has it finished. This is noticeable 



116 THE BUILDERS* GUIDE. 

on large roofs, where, to secure the greatest strength 
in the framing of the roof, it is necessary to run the 
first valley rafter to the ridge, as shown by E P, and 
butt the second valley rafter against the first, as 
shown by B O. E P is the length of the valley rafter 
which joins the ridge and the bevel at P is the bevel 
across the back of the same. B O is the length of 
left valley rafter and cuts square across the back. 
The jacks are cut from the ridge to the valleys, as 
shown. A bevel set in the angle where they join the 
valley will give the bevel across the back. The 
plumb cut is the same as that of 
the common rafter shown at J. To 
find the plumb cut of the valleys 
set off the run of the common rafter 
on the front gable A B, Fig. 85; 
now, at right angles to A B set off 
the run of common rafter from B 
to C, and draw A C for the run of 
the valley. From C square up the 
rise of valley to D and draw D A, ^'^: ss.-rinding the 

•^ ' Plumb Cut of the 

which will give the length of the Vaiiey Rafters. 

left valley the same as B O in Fig. 

84. The bevel at D, Fig. 85, is the plumb cut and at A 

the bottom cut. The plumb cut of the valley E P is 

the same as the extension of the rafter to the ridge 

line and does not change the cuts. 

OCTAGON HIP AND JACK RAFTERS. 

Let us now consider the problem of finding the 
lengths and bevels of octagon hips and jacks by the 
easy system. Referring to Fig. 86, let A B C D E 
and F represent the wall plate line, F G being the 




THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



117 



run of common rafter, G H the rise and F H the 
length of common rafter. Next swing the common 
rafter round to a perpendicular position, as F I. Set 
off half the side of the octagon A J and square up the 
length of the common rafter J K. Draw K I for the 
ridge line and K A for the hip. Space and draw the 
jacks perpendicularly from A J to the hip as shown. 
The bevel at R is the bevel across the back and the 
plumb cut is the same as that of the common rafter 
shown at H. The length and bevels will be the same 



/^ 


\ ^ 




<J 


7 / 
/ / 

// 
/ 


\ 
\ 
\ 
\ 
\ 

\ 

\ 


H-^- 



Fig:. 86.— Finding the Lengths and Bevels of Hips and Jacks on 
an Octagon Roof. 



on each side of the octagon, hence further explana- 
tion of Fig. 86 is unnecessary. 

The cuts of jacks in an octagon, hexagon or a 
polygon of any description may be found in the fol- 
lowing manner. Referring to Fig. 87, let A B rep- 
resent the length of the side, and from the center set 
off the length of the common rafter C D. Draw A D 
and B D for the length and position of hips. Space 
the jacks on the line A B and draw perpendicular to 



118 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



/ 



the hips as shown, which will give their lengths. A 

bevel set in the angle at E will give the bevel acK)ss 

the back, the down bevel being the same as that of 

the common rafter. Fig. 87 refers only to the length 

and bevel of the jacks, but the length and cuts of all 

the rafters in any regular polygon may be found in 

the following manner : Referring now to Fig. 88 let 

A B C D and E represent four 

sides of an octagon. Set off the 

center of one side as B F, and 

square into the center G F,which 

is the run of the common rafter. 

Square up the rise G H and 

draw F H for the length of the 

common rafter. The bevel at H 

is the top bevel, and at F the 

bottom bevel. G E being the run 

of the hip, square up the rise G 

I and draw E I for length of 

hip rafter. The bevel at I is the 

top bevel, and at E the bottom 

bevel. From the center of C D 

set off the length of common rafter J K, which should 

be the same length as F H. Draw K C and K D for 

the position of the hip rafters for finding the 

length and bevel of the jacks. Space the jacks on 

the line C D and draw perpendicular to the hips, 

as shown, which will give the lengths. The bevel 

shown at L is the bevel across the back, the down 

bevel being the same as that of the common rafter. 

JOINING GABLES DIAGONALLY. 

One of the most difficult problems in roof framing 
with which the mechanic has to contend — namely, that 



A c B 

Fig-. 87 —Showing' how 
to find the Lengths 
and Bevels of Jack 
Rafters in an Octa- 
g"on, Hexagon or 
Polygon. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



lid 



of joining a gable cornerways or diagonally to another 
gable— is illustrated in Fig. 89. This method is fre- 
quently adopted in city residences to produce diver- 
sity in design. Let A B C D E F G represent the 
wall plate lines in the plan ; F H, the run of the 
common rafter on the main part ; H I, the rise, and 
F I the length of the common rafter. Transfer F I to 

F J and draw J K, 
which represents 
the main ridge. 
From the center of 
the corner gable 
square up the rise 
of the common 
rafter L M, and 
draw A M for 
length of common 
rafter on the cor- 
ner gable. From 
C square up to N 
Fiff. 88.— Diagram Illustrating the Method what the main 
of obtaining the Lengths and Cuts of all common rafter 
the Rafters in any Regular Polygon. . . , r 

rises in the part of 

its run represented by L C. Then L N will be 
the length of main common rafter up to the 
point where the left valley starts. Transfer L N 
to L O, which is the starting point of the left valley. 
From O set off O P, which should be the length of the 
dotted line L G and of the common rafter A M. 
Square up G R, which should be the same as L O. 
From R set off the rise of the common rafter on the 
corner gable to S, which is the same as L M. 

From S square up the length of the common 




120 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



rafter to T, which is the same distance as A M. 
Connect T with O for the length and position of the 
left valley. Connect T with P for the length and 
position of the right valley, which runs from the 
ridge of the corner gable to the plate of the corner 
gable. Draw P G for the length and position of the 
right valley, which runs from the plate of the corner 




Fig. 8 



-Framing Gables which Join Diagonally- 



gable to the main plate. Space the jacks on the 
main ridge and draw perpendicular lines as shown. 
The jacks from K J to valley O T are the jacks in 
the main roof. The jacks from O S to the valley O 
T are the jacks on the left side of the corner gable. 
The valley T P on the right side of corner gable is 
but little longer than the common rafter on corner 
gable, and runs so nearly straight with the rafters on 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



121 



the main roof that the jacks on this side are seldom 
needed in the corner gable ; but in case they are, 
space them between S P and draw to the valley T P, 
which will give the length and bevel, as shown. 
Draw the jacks from the valley G P to the main plate, 
which will give the length and cut of the same. The 
down bevel of the jacks will be the same as that of 
the common rafter. 

It is natural for one to think the valley rafter O T 




Fig. 90.— Diagram showing Starting Point of Valley between Gables 
Joining Diagonally. 

should Start from the point C, but such is not the 
case, as will be plainly seen by referring to Fig. 90. 
which shows that the valley starts at O on the line 
of the main common rafter, and comes far above the 
point C, for C O is the same as C N in Fig. 89. 

CURVED OR MOLDED ROOFS. 

Having presented to the reader a practical sys- 
tem for almost every conceivable form of straight 
work in foof framing, the next step will be to 
show an easy system of framing curved, or molded, 
roofs, as they are sometimes called. Curved roofs 
usually take the form of concave, convex or ogee. An 



122 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Ogee is a form having a double curve, and is both con- 
cave and convex. Fig. 91 shows a conical tower roof, 
the rafters being of the concave form. Fig. 92 shows 
a convex mansard roof. Fig. 93 shows an ogee 
veranda roof. These are the principal forms. 




Fig-. 91.— Conical Tower Roof with Rafters Concave in Form. 



of curved or molded rafters, though they are 
variously combined and applied. The lengths, 
bevels and shapes are, however, developed in 
much the same manner, and when once it 
is understood how to develop the shape in one form 
any shape desired can be readily worked by the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



123 



same method. The plan; Fig. 94, represents the corner 
portion of a roof with ogee rafters. The lines A B 
and B C represent the wall plates and D E and D F 
the deck plates. A D is the run of common rafter, 




Fig. 93.— A Convex Mansard Roof. 

D E the rise, and A E the length of common rafter on 
the working line. This line governs the pitch of 
roof and the bevels. E is the down bevel at the top 
and A the bottom bevel. Connect B D for the run 



124 THE builders' guide. 

of the hip, square up the rise, D G, and connect B G 
for the length and working line of hip rafter. G is 
the down bevel at the top and B the bottom bevel. 
To lay out the curved rafter, referring now to Fig 
95, set off the run A D, the rise D E, the length and 
work line A E. Draw the desired curves, as shown. 
H I indicates the bottom edge of the rafter, and J H 
shows the width of lumber necessary for making the 




Fig. 93.— An Ogee Veranda Roof. 

curved rafter. To economize in the width of luinoer, 
the convex portion above the work line may be 
worked out separately and nailed on. As a guide in 
laying out the corresponding curves in the hip 
rafter divide the length of the common rafter on the 
work line into any number of equal spaces, as i, 2, 3, 
&c. From these points on the work line square up 
or down, as the case may be, to the curve line of the 
rafter. 

Now we are ready to develop the shape of the hip. 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



125 



Referring to Fig. 96, set off the run B D, the rise 
D G, and connect B G for the length and work line 
of the hip. Divide the work line of the hip into the 
same number of equal spaces as numbered on the 
work line of the common rafter i, 2, 3, &c., and 




Fig-. 94.- Plan of Corner of a Koof with Ogee Rafters. 

square up or down, as the case may be, the same dis- 
tances as shown on the common rafter. Then a line 
traced from B through these points to G will be the 
profile of the hip rafter. Fig. 97 represents the 
corner portion of a roof having two pitches. In this 
the angle and run of the hip are changed, without 



126 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



changing the method of finding the profiles of the 
rafters. Take the run, rise and length of common 
rafter on one side of the hip, and draw the desired 
shape. Then find the profile of the common rafter 
on the opposite side of the hip by dividing the work 
line into the same number of spaces and proceeding 
as before. The run of the hip being changed, we 
obtain a different length for the work line. When 
this is divided into the same number of equal spaces 
as were the common rafters, and the curved lines 
traced through the 
points, we obtain the 
shape of hip which 
will correspond to the 
profiles of the com- 
mon rafters from 
either side. In roofs 
of two pitches it is 
evident that there 
must be two sets and 
two bevels of com- 
mon and jack rafters. 
Now in curved roofs , 
the lengths and bev- 
els may be found by following the work lines of the 
common rafters, which may be drawn straight, as has 
been shown in Fig. 95. 

The lengths and bevels of the jacks for the dif- 
ferent pitches may be found as shown in Figs. 62, 63 
or 64. Again, it is evident that a jack rafter must be 
the same shape as the common rafter on the same 
side of roof from the bottom, or plate, up to the 
point where it joins the hip. Hence its length may 




Laying out a Curved Rafter. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



127 



be found in the following manner by measuring on 
the work line of the common rafter. 

Referring now to Fig. 98, A D is the run of the 
common rafter, D E the rise and A E the length and 
work line. To find the length of jack, set off the run 
of jack A B and square up the rise B C to the work 
line of the common rafter; then A C is the length of 
jack on the work line. This method is very simple, 
yet as it is a new and novel way of finding the length 
of jack rafters it will be well to point out a common 




Fig. 96.— Developing the Shape of the Hips. 

mistake which the inexperienced might chance to 
make. Bear in mind that A E is the length of com- 
mon rafter. B C is not the length of jack, as some 
might suppose, but the rise of jack ; A C is the length 
of jack. The down bevel is the same as that of the 
common rafter. To find the bevel across the back, 
set off from D the length of common rafter to F, 
and connect F with A, which shows the work line of 
the hip. Now continue th© line B C to the work 



128 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



line of the hip, and the bevel at G will be the bevel 
across the top of jack. B G is also the length of 
jack, and will be found to be the same as A C. 

When the bevel of the jacks is known all that is 
necessary is to square up the rise of each jack from 
the base line of common rafter A D to the work line 
A E and take the length from A to the point where the 




B C 

Fig. 97.— Plan of Corner Portion of a Roof having Two Pitches. 



rise of each jack joins the work line of common 
rafter, as shown. Many lines and much time may be 
saved in finding the bevels of jack rafters on roofs of 
different pitches by using the plan shown in Fig. 60, 
which is the simplest and easiest of all to remember 
and is applicable to roofs of any pitch. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



129 



ROOF FRAMING BY THE STEEL SQUARE. 

The lengths and cuts of any rafter, hip, valley or 
jack on roofs of any pitch may be easily found by a 
proper application of the steel square and 2-foot rule. 
There are a few simple facts which, if remembered, 
wil) serve to make hip and valley roof framing: so 
plain and easily understood that no one need have 
any difficulty in finding 
the length and cut of any 
rafter. The pitch of a 
roof is always designated 
by the number of inches 
it rises to the foot run, 
hence the cut of a com- 
mon rafter is always 12 
for the bottom cut and 
for the top cut is the rise 
of the roof to the foot. 
The cut of a correspond- 
ing hip or valley of equal 
pitch is always 17 for the 
bottom cut and for the 
top cut the rise of the 
common rafter to the 
foot. Thus if 12 and 8 cut 
the common rafter, 17 
and 8 will cut the hip or valley. The top bevel of a 
jack rafter is always 12 on the tongue of a square and 
the length of the common rafter for a foot run on 
the blade. The blade gives the cut. In other words, 
the run of the common rafter on the tongue and the 
length on the blade will always give the top bevel of 
jack rafters on roofs of equal pitch. The plumb cut 




Fig. 98.— Finding Lengths of Jack 
Rafters. 



130 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



or down bevel of a jack is always the same as that of 
the common rafter. 

Referring now to Fig. 99, to find the length of a 
common rafter, take the run on the blade of a square 
and the rise on the tongue, measure across, and we 
have the length. For example, if the run of a rafter 
is 12 feet and the rise 8 feet, take 12 inches on the 
blade and 8 inches on the tongue and measure across, 
which will give the length, 14 7-16 inches, equal to 14 
feet $j{ inches, 12 and 8 giving the cuts. The blade 




Fig. 99.— Finding Length of a Common Rafter by means of the 
Steel Square. 



gives the bottom cut and the tongue the top cut. To 
find the length of a corresponding hip or valley, take 
the run of the common rafter on both blade and 
tongue and measure across, which will give the run 
of hip or valley, which is 17 inches. To avoid con- 
fusion by cross lines, refer now to Fig. 100. Take 17 
inches on the blade and the rise, 8 inches, on the 
tongue and measure across, which gives the length of 
hip or valley 18 13-16 inches, equal to 18 feet 9^ 
inches, 17 and 8 giving the cuts. The blade gives the 
bottom cut and the tongue the top cut To find the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



131 



bevel across the top of jacks, take the length of com- 
mon rafter, 14 7-16 inches, on the blade and the run, 12 
inches, on the tongue, and the distance across also 
represents the length of hip or valley. This merely 
changes the position of hip or valley in order to ob- 
tain the bevel across the top of jacks, which is 12 
on the tongue and 14 7-16 on the blade. The blade 
gives the cut. The plumb cut or down bevel is the 
same as that of the common rafter. 

The lengths of the jacks may be obtained in the 




Fig. 100 —Finding- Leng'h of Hip or Valley Rafter. 



following manner : Take the run of common rafter 
on the blade, 12 inches, and the length, 14 7-16 inches, 
on the tongue, and lay a straight edge across, as 
shown in Fig. loi. Space the jacks on the blade of 
the square, which represents the run of common 
rafter, and measure perpendicularly from the tongue 
to the straight edge on the line of each jack for their 
length. 

The lengths of hips, valleys and jacks on roofs of 
unequal pitches may be found in the same manner 
by taking figures on the blade and tongue of a 



132 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



square which will represent the different pitches. 
For example, suppose a roof hips 9 feet on the right 
side of the hip and 13 feet on the left and has a rise 
of 8 feet, what will be the lengths and bevels of the 
rafters ? Referring to Fig. 102, take 13 inches on the 
blade of a square and 8 inches on the tongue and 
measure across. This gives 15^ inches, equal to 15 
feet 3 inches, which is the length of the common 
rafter on the left side of hip. Now, 13 inches on the 




Fig-. 101 — Obtaining- the Lengths of Jack Rafters with the 
Steel Square. 



blade and 8 inches on the tongue give the cuts, the 
tongue giving the top cut and the blade the bottom 
cut fitting the plate. Now take the length of com- 
mon rafter on the left side, 15^ inches, on the blade, 
and the run of the common rafter on the right side 
of hip, 9 inches, on the tongue and the blade will give 
the cut across the back of the jack rafters on the left 
side of the hip. The lengths of the jacks may be 
found in the following manner : Divide the length of 
common rafter by the number of spaces for jacks. 
This will give the length of the shortest jack and the 



THE BUILDERS* GUIDE. 



]33 



second will be twice that length, the third three 
times, and so on till the required number are found. 
Each side of the hip may be worked in the same 
manner till all the different lengths and cuts are 
found. The whole thing boiled down results in a 
few simple facts : i, that the run of the common 
rafter on the tongue of a square and the length of 
the common rafter on the blade will always give 
the bevel across the back of a jack rafter on roofs 
of equal pitch ; 2, if the roofs are of different 




Tig. 103.— Findiner Lengths and Bevels of 
Batters on Roofs of Unequal Pitches. 



pitches the length of the common rafter on the blade 
and the run of the common rafter on the opposite 
side of the hip or valley on the tongue will give the 
cut of the jack on the side of the roof from which 
the length of the common rafter was taken. The 
blade gives the cut. Hence the bevels of jack 
rafters on roofs of different pitches may be found as 
easily as on roofs of equal pitch. 

The next step will be to show a simple plan for ob- 
taining the length and cuts of the hip rafter by 



lU 



THE BUILDERS GUlDtl. 



means of the square and 2-foot rule. As the run of 
common rafcer on the left side of hip is 13 inches and 
on the right side 9 inches, we will take figures on the 
blade and tongue of a square which will represent 
the runs of the common rafters. Referi Ing to Fig. 103, 
take 13 inches on the blade and 9 inches on the tongue 
and measure across and we have 15 10-12 inches, 
equal to 15 feet 10 inches, the run of the hip rafter. 
Now take the run of the hip, 15 10-12 inches, on the 




Fig. 103.— Obtaining Length and Cuts of Hip 
Rafter by means of Steel Square and Two- 
Foot Rule. 

blade and the rise of the roof, 8 inches, on the tongue, 
and measure across and we have the length of the 
hip rafter, 17^ inches, equal to 17 feet 9 inches. Now, 
8 inches on the tongue and 15 10-12 on the blade will 
give the cuts. The tongue gives the down bevel at 
the top and the blade the bottom cut fitting the 
plate. 

ROOF FRAMING WITHOUT DRAWINGS. 

The system to which we shall now refer is one by 
which the lengths of common rafters, hips, valleys 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



135 



and jacks, with all their different bevels, on roofs of 
equal pitch, may be easily found without the aid of 
drawings. It is so simple that any one can under- 
stand it and find the lengths and cuts in less time 
than it takes to describe the operation. The system 
consists of a table, given below, from which the 
lengths and cuts of any rafter may be determined at 
once : 

Rafter Table. 



1 



Inches. 



10 
12 
15 

18 



So 

a:: 

O 



Feet. 

1.12 
1.16 
1.20 
1.25 
1.30 
1.42 
1.60 
1.80 



3 


4 


5 


-jj 


u 


ks 


1? 


Si 
u 


> O 


fto 


o . 






8-2 


Is 


o 


o 




Feet. 


Inches. 


Inches. 


1.50 


12 and 6 


17 and 6 


1.53 


12 and 7 


17 and 7 


1.56 


12 and 8 


17 and 8 


1.60 


12 and 9 


17 and 9 


1.64 


12 and 10 


17 and 10 


1.73 


12 and 12 


17 and 12 


1.88 


12 and 15 


17 and 15 


2.07 


12 and 18 


17 and 18 



Inches. 

131^ and 12 
135.^ and 12 
U% and 12 
15 and 12 
155^ and 12 
17 and 12 
1914 and 12 
215/ and 12 



Column I shows the pitch of roofs in the number 
of inches rise to the foot run. Column 2 shows the 
length of common rafter to a foot run. Column 3 
shows the length of a hip or valley corresponding to 
a foot run of the common rafter. Column 4 shows 
the figures to take on the square for the top and bot- 
tom cuts of the common rafter — namely, 12 for the 



l-'^O THE BUILDERS* GUIDE. 

bottom cut, and for the top cut the number of inches 
the common rafter rises to the foot run. Column 
5 shows what figures to take on the square for the 
top and bottom cuts of a corresponding hip or valley, 
which is always 17 for the bottom cut and the num- 
ber of inches the common rafter rises to the foot run 
for the top cut. Column 6 shows what figures to 
take on the square for the top bevel of the jack raft- 
ers, which is always 12 on the tongue of a square 
and the length of the common rafter for a foot run 
on the blade. The blade gives the cut. The plumb 
cut or down bevel is always the same as that of the 
common rafter. 

To avoid a complication of fractions the figures 
given in columns 2 and 3 are in feet and decimals. 
To find the length of common rafters, hips, valleys 
and jacks, it is only necessary to multiply the run by 
the figures given corresponding to the pitch. 

We will now give a practical example showing 
how to find the lengths of rafters by means of the 
table. 

Example. — What will be the length of rafters on a 
building 16 feet wide, with roof of 7 inches pitch, 
hipped to the center and rafters placed 16 inches 
from centers ? 

Analysis. — The run of the common rafter is one- 
half the width of the building, which is 8 feet. Mul- 
tiplying the run by the length of rafter for i foot, 
7-inch pitch, column 2 of the table, and pointing ofi 
the product as in multiplication of decimals, we have 
the length of rafter in feet and a decimal of a foot. 
The decimal must be multiplied by 12 to reduce it to 
inches. 



THE BUILDERS* GUIDE. 137 

Operation — 1.16 x 8 = 9.28 feet. 0.28 x 12 = 3.36 
inches. Thus the length of the common rafter is 9 
feet 3.36 inches. The 0.36 is a decimal of an inch, and 
if great accuracy is desired it may be called 3/^ inch. 
The table is made to give the length in full, so that 
very slight decimals may be disregarded altogether. 
The corresponding hip or valley may be found as 
follows: 1.53 X 8 = 12.24 feet. 0.24 x 12 = 2.88 inches. 
The decimal o 88 may be called ^ inch. Thus the 
length of the hip would be 12 feet 2^ inches. 

If the rafters are placed 16 inches from centers the 
run of the first jack will be 16 inches. Taking the 
same figures in the table as those to find the common 
rafter and multiplying by 16 inches, we have as fol- 
lows * 

1. 16 X 16 = 18.56 

The decimal 0.56 may be called ^ inch. Thus the 
length of the first jack would be 18^2 inches, the sec- 
ond twice that, the third three times, and so on till 
the required number is found. In complicated roofs 
the table may be used to great advantage in connec- 
tion with the plan. When used in this way only one 
diagram showing the runs of the rafters is needed, as 
the lengths of all the rafters may be very quickly 
.figured and set down on the plan and the required 
bevels may be taken from the table. Fig. 104 shows 
the plan of a roof 16 x 24 feet, with wing 12x8 feet. 
Roof to be 8 inches to the foot pitch and rafters 
placed 2 feet from centers. The lengths of rafters in 
this plan figured by the table are as follows : 

For the common rafter, main part, 
1.20 X 8 = 9.60 feet. 0.60 X 12 = 7.20 inches. 



i3S 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Length of common rafter is therefore 9 feet 7 
inches. 

For the hip rafter, main part, 
1.56 X 8 = 12.48 feet. 0.48 X 12 = 5 76 inches. 
The length of hip rafter is therefore 12 feet 5|^ 
inches. 

For the first jack, main part, 
1.20 X 2 = 2.40 feet. 0.40 X i2 =z 4.80 inches. 




Fig. 104.— Show insr how a Plan of a Roof can be used in 
Connection with Rafter Table. 

The length of first jack is 2 feet 4^ inches ; the 
length of the second jack is 4 feet 9^ inches, and the 
length of the third jack is 7 feet 2^ inches. 

For the hip rafter on the wing: 

1.56 X 6 = 9.36 feet. 0,36 X 12 = 4.32 inches. 
The length of hip rafter is therefore 9 feet 4 ^^ inches 



THE builders' GUIDE. 139 



Thus we have computed the different lengths of all 
the rafters necessary to figure in the plan, as all 
rafters of the same run will be the same length, these 
being readily seen in the plan. As the latter shows 
the lengths of the principal different rafters it is un- 
necessary to represent all those which arc of the 
same length, although it is a good plan in actual 
practice. By this method one can see at a glance 
just where every rafter belongs, as well as noting in- 
stantly all of the same length. It is usually neces- 
sary to figure the lengths of only a few, as will be 
seen by referring to the plan. The valley rafter on 
the left side of the wing should be the same length 
as the main hip; then it will reach to the main ridge, 
the only place of support in a self-supporting roof. 
The jacks which cut from hip to valley on this side 
will each be the same length, which is 4 feet 9^ 
inches, the length of the second jack, as shown in 
the plan. The valley on the right side of the wing 
will be the same length as the hip on the end of the 
wing. The common rafter on the wing will be the 
same length as the third jack on the main part. It 
is easy to see that the length of any rafter on roofs 
of equal pitch may be readily found by this method. 

LAYING OUT RAFTERS. 

In laying out rafters, it is very important to set off 
the length on the work line, as deviations from this 
rule will often lead to mistakes. The lines indicat- 
ing the run and rise of a rafter are easily traced, but 
the work line for the length of a rafter is sometimes 
lost to sight, particularly in cutting jack rafters. 
The framer must never lose the work line in cutting 



1*0 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



a rafter; if he does, he is like a mariner at sea with- 
out a compass or a ship without a rudder. The 
work line is an important part in obtaining the 
lengths of rafters, as will be shown. 

In roofs which have a projection of the rafter for 
the cornice, the back of the rafter rises above the 
level of the plate whatever thickness may be allowed 
on the rafter for the support of the cornice. Refer- 




Fiff. 105 - 



-Diagram Showing ] mportanc© of Work Line In 
Laying out Rafters. 



ring to Fig. 105, A B represents the run of a common 
rafter, B C the rise, and A C the length and work 
line. Projections for the cornice must be added 
from the corner of the plate at A. Now suppose we 
square up from the corner of the plate at A to D, the 
back of the rafter, and measure the length to E the 
same as on the line A C. Now if we make the plumb 
cut at E, as shown by the dotted line, we find our 
rafter too short, as is plainly shown in the diagram. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



141 



Thus it will be seen that the work line is an essential 
point in laying out rafters. 

We will now trace the work line in a jack rafter 
from the plate to the top bevel, as this is the place 
many mechanics are at a loss as to the proper point 
to which to measure. 

Referring to Fig. io6, we can easily trace the work 
line and the lines forming the cut of the jack rafter. 
The work line is 

represented by A ^ 

C, the plumb line 
or down bevel by 
D B', and is al- 
ways the same as 
the down bevel 
of the common 
rafter. To find 
the bevel across 
the back of the 
rafter draw an- 
other plumb line 
the thickness of 
the rafter from 
the cutting line 

and measured square from it, as C E. Square across 
the back of the rafter to F ; connect F with D, and 
the lines to which to cut are F D Br The proper 
point to which to measure on the line A C is from A 
to the scratch mark. half way between the two plumb 
lines, this being the center of the rafter in thickness. 
In actual practice this little point need not be con- 
sidered, and for convenience iq rneasudng the length 
may be taken from A to C, §q slight a deviatign in 




Fig. 106.— Diagram Showing Work Line in a 
Jack Rafter. 



i. 



142 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 

the true length of a jack rafter does not cut any 
figure in framing or ever appear noticeable, from the 
fact that jack rafters can be moved forward or back- 
ward a little on the plate and hip and if they are all 
framed by the same rule will be of uniform distance 
apart. 

We are instructed by some to deduct half the 
thickness of the hip or valley rafter in setting off the 
length of jacks. This is a point which may be disre- 
garded, especially when hip and valley rafters are 
only 2 inches thick. It is evident that if we lay 
out a jack rafter setting off the length on the side 
which has the long corner of the bevel, it will be a 
little more than half the thickness of the rafter short 
when the bevel is cut. 

Therefore, if jacks are cut according to the work 
line in Fig. io6, they will be near enough for all 
practical purposes in the usual order of building and 
without making any deduction in length for the 
thickness of hip and valley rafters. When roofs have 
a ridge pole deduct half its thickness from the 
length of the common rafter. Aside from this, it is 
seldom necessary to make any reduction in the 
lengths of rafters, as shown on the work lines in the 
plans. 

RAISING RAFTERS. 

It is as important to know how to properly put 
up the frame work of a roof as it is to know how to 
lay it off correctly. First see that the plates are 
straight and the angles true, then set up the deck or 
ridge on stanchions the proper hight ; next put up 
all the common rafters which will not interfere with 
" hips and valleys. Many mechanics advocate raising 



THE builders' GUIDE. 143 



the hips and valleys first, but practical experience 
will prove that this is a great mistake. Put up first 
all the common rafters that can be raised conven- 
iently. There is always a ready way to plumb a pair 
of common rafters, and if the common rafters are 
plumb they will square up the roof ready for hips 
and valleys, which, being on an angle with the plates, 
are often very bothersome to set to the required 
angle. They are also troublesome to plumb up, 
especially when they are the first rafters raised. By 
raising the common rafters first the deck or ridge is 
brought into the proper position for the hips and val- 
leys and the trouble of squaring and plumbing the 
hips and valleys is much less. After raising the hips 
and valleys stay them straight and finally put in the 
jacks,' being careful not to spring the hips and valleys 
when nailing the jacks. 



144 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



MITERING PLANCEERS, MOLDINGS, &c. 

As the art of making a common miter joint is uni- 
versally understood by all mechanics, an explanation 
of the common miter is unnecessary. We will, there- 
fore, explain the methods of making some of the 
most complicated and difficult miters which fre- 
quently come upia the actual practice of carpentry. 
Fig. 107 shows the elevation of a roof having three 
gables, and it is required to miter the level planceer 
_ A B with the gable 
planceer B C. To 
many this seems like 
a difficult problem ; 
yet if one will con- 
sider the roof plan 
for a moment, he will 
see that the proper 
figures on the square 
to make the required 
miter may be taken directly from the roof plan, 
which gives the bevels for cutting the rafters. 

To cut the bevel on the planceer A B use the same 
figures on the square that make the bevel across the 
top of jacks, but reverse the cut. Thus, if 17 on 
blade and 12 on tongue cuts the jack rafters, the 
blade gives the cut of the jack and the tongue the 
miter line for the planceer. The reason for reversing 
the cut is because the planceer A B runs in a direc- 
tion exactly opposite the rafters. 




A B D 

Fig. 107.— Elevation of Roof Having 

Three Gables. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 145 



The same figures will also miter the sheeting in 

the valley. Now, the planceer B C which goes up the 

gable runs parallel with the rafters, hence the same 

figures which give the cut for the jacks will give the 

cut for this, which, in the present case, are 17 on the 

blade and 12 on the tongue, the blade giving the 

cut. Or, referring to Fig. 107, B G and D G show the 

position and length of valley rafters, and the bevel 

at B is the bevel for cutting the planceer A B, while 

that at J, which is the bevel for jack rafter, is the 

bevel for cutting the planceer B C, which goes up 

the gable. The junction of the two 

gable planceers C D and E D at D 

forms another kind of miter joint. 

In this the planceer on both gables 

cuts the same, and the cut is the 

same as the bevel which cuts the 

jacks, shown at D. This bevel is ^' N;^° 

also the same as the one shown at j. Fig-. 108 » —Diagram 

The planceers A B and B C must ^"i'l^f^^ ^'^^^ 
^ . of Gable Pianceer. 

necessarily be of different v/idths, 
the gable planceer being the narrower. To find 
the width the gable planceer must be to match 
the level planceer, draw the width of level plan- 
ceer A B, representing the pitch of roof, as 
shown in Fig. 108. Square dow^n from A to C, 
the rise of planceer, and B C will be the width of 
gable planceer corresponding to A B. To obtain 
the miter line for mitering the fascia and crown 
molding at B, draw two parallel level lines and two 
parallel pitch lines of the common rafter, keeping 
both sets of lines the stime distance apart, as shown 
in Fig. 109. Connect the opposite angles where the 




146 THE builders' GUIDE. 



lines cross each Other, as shown by A B, and this will 
give the required miter. The figures for this may be 
found by placing the blade of the square on the line 
A C and tongue on A B. The tongue gives the cut 
If the fascia stands square with the rafters on the 
line A B, Fig. 107, then a square miter will make the 
joint which connects the level fascia A B with the 
gable fascia A F. But now suppose the fascia on 
line A B stands plumb, as it frequently does, and 
should on a roof of this kind, then a different cut is 
required. In this case cut the level fascia on a 

square miter, but for 

the gable fascia cut 

across the edge of 

the board on the 

same bevel as for a 

jack, and cut the 

plumb line the same 

C / /^ as that of the com- 

Fig. 109.— Method of Obtaining Miter Line ^on rafter. 

for Fascia and Crown Molding. , 

Having shown 

how to properly miter the planceer and fascia, 
we will next take the crown molding. The miter 
for moldings cannot be accurately laid off from 
the square because it cannot be properly applied 
to them ; hence the best way to miter moldings 
is by means of the miter box. As almost every one 
knows how to make the common miter box I 
will not go into the details of manufacturing it, 
but explain the methods of making cuts in it for 
the purpose of mitering moldings for some of the 
difficult joints which frequently come up m actual 
practice. 




THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



147 



To miter the molding in the valley at D, Fig. 
107, which is the junction of two gables, take for 
the cut down the sides of the box the plumb cut of 
the common rafter, which in this case I will sup- 
pose to be one-half pitch, which is in accordance 
with the diagrams. For the cut across the top of 
box use the same bevel as for cutting the jacks, 
which is shown at J. Fig. no shows the manner 
of applying the square to the box for laying off 




Fig- 110.— Manner of Applying- the Square to the Miter Box for Laying 
Off the Cuts. 



the cuts. It will be necessary to put two cuts in 
the box, right and left, as shown. In connection 
with this kind of a box it is more convenient to 
make it with only one side, as shown in Fig. in. 
The side, however, should be made of a thick piece 
of lumber, so that it will form a good guide for 
the saw. As these miter boxes are used only for 
a special purpose no one wants to spend very much 
time making them, therefore the box with one side 
is recommended to answer the purpose, and it is 



148 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



the easiest to make. The secret of a good miter 
box lies in having the sides stand square with the 
bottom and of the same hight from end to end 
If these two points are carefully observed and the 
cuts made true, good results will follow, no matter 
how rough the box may be in appearance. 

To miter the level molding at A, in Fig. 107, with 
the gable molding A F, cut the level molding A B in 
a common miter box, using the square mit r, and cut 
the gable molding A F in the box as described in 
connection with Fig. no. By this method a fair job 




Fig-. 111.— Miter Box with One Side. 

can be done, but the moldings will not member 
exactly. To make a perfect joint the gable molding 
requires a slightly different profile. 

Fig. 112 shows the elevation plan of a hip and valley 
roof drawn to the scale of a third pitch, in which is 
shown another form of miter joints. A B is the length 
and position of left end hip rafter, C D the length of 
common rafter, C E the length and position of left 
valley rafter, F G the length and position of left hip 
on front end, and F H the length of common rafter. 
A B, C E and F G show the miter lines of hips and 
valleys. There is nothing peculiar or difficult about 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



149 



the joints at A, C and E except the mitering of the 
fascia and crown molding on a square cornice, 
which means that the ends of the rafters are cut 
square and that the fascia and crown molding stand 
square with the roof instead of plumb. To miter the 
sheeting or the planceer on the hips or in the valley, 
take the length of common rafter C D on the blade 
and the run of common rafter D E on the tongue. 
The figures for a third pitch are 14}^ inches on blade 
and 12 inches on tongue, the tongue giving the cut, 




F 1 

Fiff. 112.— Hip and Valley Roof of One-Third Pitch. 

or the bevel may be taken at C, as shown in the dia- 
gram. There is also a bevel across the edge of the 
board, which may be found in the following manner : 
Take the length of common rafter F H on the blade 
and the rise of common rafter I H on the tongue. 
The figures for a third pitch are 14^ inches on blade 
and 8 inches on tongue, the tongue giving the cut, 
or the bevel may be found as follows : Square down 
on the line F H the rise of common rafter H J and 
connect J F. The bevel at J will be the bevel for 
the edge of the board. 



150 THE builders' GUIDE. 

There is practically no difference between a hip 
and valley cut. The bevel on the edge of board in the 
valley and on the hip is the same, it being only neces 
sary to reverse the bevel, as the long point of bevel 
on hip vv^ill be on the face side of board and in the 
valley it will be on the back side. 

To miter the fascia at A, C or F when it stands 
square with the roof proceed as follows : For the 
bevel across the edge of board take the length of the 
common rafter on the blade and the run on the 
tongue, when the tongue will give the cut. Figures 
on the square are the same as for cutting the face 
side of sheeting or planceer, or the bevel may be taken, 
as shown at C. For the cut down the side of fascia 
take the length of the common rafter on the blade 
and the rise of common rafter on tongue, and the 
tongue will give the cut, or take the bevel shown at J. 

To make the cut on a miter box for mitering the 
molding on the hips and valleys take the bevel at C 
for the cut across the top of box, which is 14^ inches 
on blade and 12 inches on tongue. The tongue gives 
the cut. For the cut down the side of box take the 
bevel at J, which is 14^ inches on the blade and 8 
inches on the tongue The tongue gives the cut. 
The facts when condensed are as follows: 

Length of common rafter, 14^ inches on blade, 
and run of common rafter, 12 inches on tongue, gives 
cut for face of planceer or sheeting. The tongue 
gives the cut. 

Length of common rafter, 14^ inches on blade, 
and rise of common rafter, 8 inches on tongue, gives 
cut for edge of planceer or sheeting. The tongue 
gives the cut. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



151 



Length of common rafter, 14^ inches on blade, 
and run of common rafter, 12 inches on tongue, 
gives cut for edge of fascia. The tongue gives the 
cut. 

Length of common rafter, 14^ inches on blade, 
and rise of common rafter, 8 inches on tongue, gives 
cut for side of fascia. The tongue gives the cut. 

MITERING ROOF BOARDS AND PLANCEERS. 

To miter planceers and roof boards in valleys of 
two pitches it is only necessary to take the figures 




Fig. 113.— Plan of Valley in a Roof of Two Pitches. 

on the square which cut the bevels across the top of 
the jacks on the two pitches and reverse the cut, as 
the roof boards and planceers run in an opposite 
direction to the jacks. 

The bevels may be taken from any plan showing 
the two pitches and cuts of jacks. Fig. 113 repre- 
sents the plan of a valley in a roof of two pitches. 



152 THE builders' GUIDE. 



The dotted lines D B and B F are the lines plumb 
under the ridge. A B shows the run of the valley, 
C D the length of common rafter on left gable, and 
E F the length of common rafter on front gable. 
Transfer the length of common rafter C D to C G 
and draw the ridge line G H, which extends to the 
center of front gable. Transfer the length of com- 
mon rafter E F to E I and draw the ridge line I J, 
which extends to the center of left gable. Connect 
A H and A J, which shows the position of valley for 
finding the bevels of the jacks, roof boards and plan- 
ceers on both sides of the hip. The bevels at K and 
L are the jack rafter bevels. The bevels at M and N 
are the bevels for mitering the roof boards or plan- 
ceers. The bevels at H and J are also the same as M 
and N, and show very plainly that they are the re- 
verse of the jack rafter bevels. It is only necessary 
to have the planceers of a different width in order to 
have them member exactly, as will be seen by the 
boards in the diagram. If this plan is followed there 
will be no twisting of planceers in cornicing when 
joining roofs of different pitches. 

BEVEL FOR HIP OR VALLEY. 

A question in roof framing which sometimes comes 
up in actual practice is how to cut the bevel on the 
lower end of a hip or valley corresponding to a 
square cut of the common rafter. This is only used 
in cutting the ends of hip and valley rafters prepara- 
tory to nailing on the fascia and crown molding. 
Every carpenter knows that a square cut on a hip or 
valley will not correspond with a square cut on the 
common rafter. 

This cut may be obtained in the following manner: 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Take 17 inches on the blade of a square and one half 
the rise of the common rafter to a foot run on the 
tongue, and the tongue gives the cut. 

For example, suppose I have a roof of one-third 
pitch. This being a rise of 8 inches to the foot run, 8 
and 12 will make the common rafter cuts and 17 and 




Fig-. 114 —Manner of Applying the Steel Square to Obtain Bevel 
for Hip or Yalley Rafter. 



4 the cut on the end of the hio or valley correspond- 
ing to a square cut of the common rafter. Fig. 114 
shows the manner of applying the square for the 
purpose of obtaining the bevel on the lower end of a 
hip or valley rafter. 



INDEX 

An Important Point 1 14 

Area of a Gable, Finding the 20 

Area of a Triangle, Finding the 21 

Art of Roof Framing 80 

Backing Hip Rafters 83 

Base, Mitering and Coping 68 

Bathrooms 51 

Bay Windows, To Prevent Leaks in 77 

Bevel for Hip or Valley 152 

Bevel of Jack Rafters 82 

Binding Sliding Doors 71 

Blocks, Corner 67 

Building Out of Square, Hips on End of 96 

Carpentry Work, Estimating Labor for 38 

Casings, Estimating Corner 15 

Chimneys, Foundations and 55 

Circle, The 30 

Circle from a Segment, To Find the Radius of a 31 

Circle of Jack Rafters, Great 86 

Circle Through Three Points, To Draw a 31 

Complicated Roof Framing Made Easy 90 

Construction, Practical Methods of 64 

Contract, Form of , 62 

Coping Base, Mitering and 68 

Corner Blocks 67 

Corner Casings, Estimating 15 

Corners, Making 64 

Cornice, Estimating 14 

Cornices 46 

Cubic Measure 5 

Curved or Molded Roofs 121 

Different Pitches, Gables of , 100 

Divisions in Estimating, Principal 54 

Door Frames 49 

Doors, Binding Sliding 71 

155 



156 INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 

Doors, Folding 51 

Doors, Sliding 50 

Double Floors 44 

Draw a Circle Through Three Points, To 31 

Drawings, Roof Framing Without 134 

Estimate, Form for an , 54 

Estimating Corner Casings 15 

Estimating Cornice 14 

Estimating Floor Joists 13 

Estimating Hardware, List of Items for 60 

Estimating Labor, Points on 41 

Estimating Labor by the Piece, Table of Prices for 43 

Estimating Labor by the Square, Table of Prices for 42 

Estimating Labor for Carpentry Work 38 

Estimating Lumber, List of Items for 17 

Estimating Nails, Table for 61 

Estimating, Points on 3 

Estimating, Principal Divisions in 54 

Estimating, Practical Rules for 7 

Estimating Sheeting 7 

Estimating Shingles 8 

Estimating, Short Cut in 53 

Estimating Siding 7 

Estimating Studding 9 

Estimating Window Frames 49 

Example and Solution 55 

Excavations 54 

Finding the Area of a Gable 20 

Finding the Area of a Triangle 21 

Floors, Double 44 

Floor Joists, Estimating 13 

Folding Doors 51 

Form for an Estimate 54 

Form of Contract 62 

Foundations and Chimneys 55 

Frames, Door 49 

Frames, Estimating Window 4q 

Framing, Art of Roof 80 

Framing by the Steel Square, Roof 129 

Framing Made Easy, Complicated Roof 90 

Framing Without Drawings, Roof 134 



INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 15*7 



Gable, Finding the Area of a 20 

Gables of Different Pitches 100 

Gables Diagonally, Joining 118 

Gable Roofs, Plain 22 

Geometrical Measurement of Roofs 19 

Great Circle of Jack Rafters 86 

Gutters 46 

Hardware 60 

Hardware, List of Items for Estimating 60 

Hip Roofs 2^ 

Hip and Jack Rafters, Octagon 116 

Hip and Valley Roofs 26, 107 

Hip or Valley, Bevel for 152 

Hip Rafters, Backing 83 

Hip Roofs of Unequal Pitches 84 

Hips and Valleys, Shingling 77 

Hips on End of Building Out of Square 96 

Important Point, An 114 

Items and Quantities 6 

Items and Quantities Required, List of 6 

Items for Estimating Hardware, List of 60 

Items for Estimating Lumber, List of 17 

Jack Rafters, Bevel of 82 

Jack Rafters, Great Circle of 86 

Jack Rafters, Octagon Hip and 116 

Joining Gables Diagonally 118 

Labor, Points on Estimating 41 

Labor by the Piece, Table of Prices for Estimating 43 

Labor by the Square, Table of Prices for Estimating 42 

Labor for Carpentry Work, Estimating 38 

Lathing and Plastering ^6 

Laying Out Rafters i-^o 

Leaks in Bay Windows, To Prevent yy 

Linear Measure 4 

List of Items and Quantities Required 6 

List of Items for Estimating Hardware 60 

List of Items for Estimating Lumber ly 



Making Corners. 



64 



158 INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 

Measure, Cubic 5 

Measure, Linear 4 

Measure, Square 4 

Measurement of Roofs, Geometrical 19 

Methods of Construction, Practical 64 

Mistakes from Omissions 16 

Mitering and Coping Base 68 

Mitering Planceers, Moldings, &c 144 

Mitering Roof Boards and Planceers 151 

Molded Roofs, Curved or 121 

Moldings, &c , Mitering Planceers 144 

Nails, Table for Estimating 61 

Nails to the Pound, Number of 61 

Octagon Hip and Jack Rafters . . 116 

Omissions, Mistakes from 16 

Painting 56 

Pantries . . 51 

Pitches, Gables of Different 100 

Pitches, Hip Roofs of Unequal 84 

Plain Gable Roofs 22 

Planceers, Moldings, &c., Mitering 144 

Planceers, Mitering Roof Boards and 151 

Plastering, Lathing and 56 

Point, An Important 114 

Points on Estimating — , 3 

Points on Estimating Labor 41 

Polygons 32 

Porches 48 

Practical Methods of Construction 64 

Practical Rules for Estimating 7 

Prices for Estimating Labor by the Piece, Table of 43 

Prices for Estimating Labor by the Square, Table of 42 

Principal Divisions in Estimating 54 

Quantities, Items and 6 

Quantities Required, List of Items and 6 

Radius of a Circle from a Segment, To Find the 31 

Rafter Table 135 



INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 159 

Rafters, Backing Hip 83 

Rafters, Bevel of Jack 82 

Rafters, Great Circle of Jack 86 

Rafters, Laying Out , 139 

Rafters, Octagon Hip and Jack 116 

Rafters, Raising 142 

Recapitulation 52 

Roof Boards and Planceers, Mitering 151 

Roof Framing, Art of 80 

Roof Framing by the Steel Square 129 

Roof Framing Made Easy, Complicated 90 

Roof Framing Without Drawings 134 

Roofs, Curved or Molded 121 

Roofs. Geometrical Measurement of 19 

Roofs, Hip 23 

Roofs, Hip and Valley 26, 107 

Roofs, Plain Gable 22 

Roofs of Unequal Pitches, Hip 84 

Rules for Estimating 7 

Segment, To Find the Radius of a Circle from a 31 

Sheeting, Estimating 7 

Shingles, Estimating 8 

Shingling, Hip and Valley 77 

Short Cut in Estimating 53 

Siding, Estimating 7 

Sinks 51 

Sliding Doors 50 

Sliding Doors, Binding 71 

Spacing Studding 65 

Square Measure 4 

Stairs 52 

Steel Square, Roof Framing by the 129 

Studding, Estimating g 

Studding^ Spacing 65 

Table, Rafter 133 

Table for Estimating Nails 61 

Table of Prices for Estimating Labor by the Piece 43 

Table of Prices for Estimating Labor by the Square 42 

Three Points, To Draw a Circle Through 31 

To Prevent Leaks in Bay Windows 77 

Triangle, Finding the Area of a 21 



160 INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 



Unequal Pitches, Hip Roofs of 84 

Valley, Bevel for Hip or 152 

Valley Roofs, Hip and 26, 107 

Valleys, Shingling Hips and 77 

Wainscoting 51 

Window Frames, Estimating 49 







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